Then came the
4th and the rest of the 1st brigade, with the exception of the troops who
were left behind to take care of the camp. Major Baigrie, as
quartermaster-general of the 1st division, rode in advance.
As the long line wound up the steep ascent in Fahla the effect was very
pretty, and elicited several remarks that this was our Easter-Monday
review. On the way up we met a large number of men, women, and children
upon their way down. Once upon the shoulder which connects Fahla and
Salamgi, we found ourselves in the midst of a surprising scene. A perfect
exodus was in progress. Many thousands of men, women, and children were
crowded everywhere, mixed up with oxen, sheep, and donkeys. The women,
children, and donkeys were laden with the scanty possessions of the
inhabitants. Skins of grain and flour, gourds and jars of water and ghee,
blankets for coverings and tents—these were their sole belongings. It was
a Babel of noises. The women screamed their long, quavering cry of
admiration and welcome; men shouted to each other from rock to rock;
mothers who had lost their children screamed for them, and the children
wailed back in return; sheep and goats bleated, and donkeys and mules
brayed. It was an astonishing scene. All seemed extremely glad to see us,
and to be relieved from the state of fear and starvation in which they had
existed; men, women, and children bent until their foreheads touched the
ground in token of submission. The men who bore no arms carried burdens,
as did the women; but the warriors only carried their arms. The number of
gaudy dresses among the latter was surprising, and their effect was very
gay and picturesque. Shirts of red, blue, or purple brocade, with yellow
flowers, and loose trousers of the same material, but of a different hue,
were the prevailing fashion with the chiefs. These were distinguished from
the soldiers by having silver ornaments upon their shields. At present all
retained their arms; but the 10th Native Infantry had been left at the
foot of the hill with orders to disarm them as they came down the road.
All along our march over Salamgi this extraordinary scene continued; and
we saw more people than we have seen during the whole time we have been in
Abyssinia. The general opinion is, that there could not have been less
than thirty thousand people congregated here; and I believe that this
computation is rather under than over the mark.
There was a universal feeling of thankfulness that we had not been obliged
to bombard the place, as the slaughter among this defenceless crowd of
people would have been terrible. Wherever was a level piece of ground,
there their habitations were clustered. They were mere temporary abodes—a
framework of sticks, covered with coarse grass, placed regularly and
thickly, so as to turn the rain. They were about the size and shape of
ordinary haycocks, and show that the people must sleep, as they sit,
curled almost into a ball.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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