Respecting the country, I have little to tell that is not already known to
English readers. After the tremendous gorges of the Djedda and Bachelo,
which are now ascertained to be 3900 feet in depth, the hills upon this
side of the Tacazze, which had appeared so formidable when we before
crossed them, are mere trifles. The roads, too, were much better than when
we went up, the second brigade and Sappers and Miners having done a good
deal of work upon them to render them practicable for elephants. The rain
which has fallen lately has done a good deal to brighten-up the country;
not upon the bare hill-sides—there all is brown and burnt-up as before—but
in the bottom of the valleys and upon the hill-sides, where streamlets
have poured down during the rains, the bright green of the young grass
affords a pleasant relief to the eye. The crops, too, look bright and
well; and it is a curious circumstance, that here there appears to be no
fixed time for harvest. It is no unusual thing to see three adjoining
patches of cultivated land—the one having barley in full ear, the second
having the crop only a few inches above the ground, and the third
undergoing the operation of the plough.
The army is now about seven days in my rear, as I travel very much faster
than they do. Every available mule is being sent up to meet them, to carry
down stores and baggage; and there is rum and all other comforts for them
at the principal stations upon their way. The native carriage is at work
bringing down the spare supplies; and if there are but sufficient of them
employed, the stores will soon cease to trouble us; for the natives are
such arrant thieves, that between this and Atzala, only two days’ march,
bags of rice and flour which started weighing 75 lb. arrive weighing only
40 lb., 30 lb., and sometimes only 25 lb. The word Habesh, which is their
own general name for the people of Abyssinia, means a mixture; and I can
hardly imagine a worse mixture than it is, for they appear to have
inherited all the vices and none of the virtues of the numerous races of
whom they are composed.
Beyond this I need write no more; but I cannot close my journal of the
Abyssinian expedition without expressing my gratitude for the very great
and uniform kindness with which I have been treated by the
Commander-in-chief, and by the greater portion of his staff. I would
particularly mention Colonel Dillon, the Military Secretary; one of the
most able and certainly the most popular officer upon the staff, and whose
kindness and attention to us has been unbounded. He has been always ready
to afford us any information in his power, and to assist us in all those
little difficulties with which a civilian travelling with an army is
unavoidably beset.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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