Nor were the
fittings of the table less various. It was the camp rule that everyone
should bring his own plates, knives, forks, and glasses. Some of us
therefore fed off tin, some off crockery, some off enamelled iron. Some
drank from glasses, some from pewter-pots. The only uniformity was in the
bottle of champagne placed before each diner. Most of us would, I think,
have preferred beer; but there was not a bottle left in the camp, and the
champagne before us had been hoarded for this sacred occasion. The dinner
was various. Mutton and guinea-fowl; spur-fowl and venison; but, whatever
we ate, everyone present religiously took a piece of the joint of roast
beef. It was the only reminder of the occasion. I need not say how
heartily each joined in the toast of “All friends at home.”
I start this afternoon on my way down the pass again to Zulla, and shall
carry this letter down to post there, as the ridiculous arrangements to
which I have before alluded still prevail. A native still creeps up and
down the pass with a bag on his back, and takes his four or five days to
do the seventy miles, whereas two relays of men on mules or ponies would
bring the bag down in fifteen hours easily. As it is, no one knows whether
they will be in time to catch a post or not. In fact, it is a pure
haphazard proceeding.
‐‐‐‐‐‐‐‐‐‐‐‐‐‐‐‐‐‐‐‐‐‐
Zulla, Annesley Bay, January 2d, 1868.
I have been now three days back in Zulla, which is literally crowded with
troops. In respect to the pass, nothing could be more surprising than the
change which has taken place in the road during the fortnight which has
elapsed since I first passed up. This is due to the way in which the
sappers and miners, under officers of the Royal Engineers, and the
advanced companies of the Beloochees, under Major Hogg, have worked. The
latter are at work in the valley below the Rayray Guddy pass, and here
they make very nearly a mile of road a day, along which artillery might be
taken without difficulty. It is wonderful to see the change which they
have effected, and the hearty way in which they work. Not less surprising
is the change which the sappers and miners have effected in the Sooro
Gorge. When I last rode up it, it was, as I described it, all but
impracticable for loaded animals. One had to clamber over a huge boulder
here, to scramble through between two others there. It was a really
difficult proceeding, and loaded camels were unable to get through the
narrow places. Now all this is changed. A path winds here and there among
the rocks, down which I was able to ride my horse without the smallest
difficulty. The worst part of the journey was the passage of the
thirty-three miles between Rayray Guddy and Sooro, without water, except a
bucket of pea-soup-coloured stuff at Guinea-fowl Plain for the animals. It
is proposed to sink more wells at this point, to put up some pumps, and to
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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