It is only after a ride or two round camp that one sees how very great are
the changes which have taken place in the last three weeks. I do not know
that anywhere in the world could more objects of various interest, more
life and movement and bustle, be found than in a couple of hours’ ride
through this camp. Start we from the head of the _bunder_—in England
called pier; but here everything has its Indian name. The _bunder_ has,
since I last wrote, been lengthened a few yards, and has been widened at
the end to a width of fifteen or twenty yards. On one side, too, wooden
piles have been driven down, so that the great landing barges can lie
safely alongside and discharge. It will be a great thing when it is
finished in the same way all round the pier-head. Not very pleasant are
one’s first steps upon Abyssinian soil, for the pier is made of great
rough pieces of rock and pumice-stone, painful to walk upon, and utterly
destructive to boots. In spite of this the pier-head is crowded. The hour
at which we start upon our ride is daybreak, and from daybreak until eight
o’clock bathing is allowed from the pier, as also from five to seven in
the evening. Here we have a number of figures, some dressing, some
undressing, some picking their way painfully over the stones to their
clothes, others in the act of plunging into the water, which is at high
tide seven feet deep. Around, the sea is dotted with heads, many of which
we recognise and address. Here is a quartermaster-general, there a colonel
of infantry, next to whom is a drummer-boy, and beyond a dozen privates.
There is no distinction of rank here. Everyone picks out the softest stone
he can find to sit upon, and cares nothing whether his next neighbour be a
general officer or a full private. We pick our way as well as we can
across this bit of rough ground and through the groups of bathers, and
then at ten yards from the head of the pier we come upon smoother ground.
Here is a line of rails, and the surface has been smoothed by spreading
sand over it, an improvement which has only been completed two or three
days since. Before, a walk down the bunder was certain destruction to any
but the most iron-shod pair of boots. By the side of the bunder, where the
rail commences, a large barge is lying. She has just come alongside, and
fifty or sixty mules and ponies, her cargo, are looking over her rail with
excited eyes and restless inquiring ears at the bustle on the quay, and at
this land, which, although they know it not, is destined to be the grave
of many of them. On the pier, awaiting their arrival, is one of the
indefatigable officers of the transport train. He has with him a couple of
men. A long gangway is laid from the barge, which is much higher than the
pier, down on to the stones; on this are thrown some gunny-bags, and then
the animals, some coming readily enough, others resisting strenuously,
snorting and struggling, are led down. As they reach the land their
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