"They produce all those marvellous black and white laces, which you have
seen Justine make at our house. It is wonderful to see, here among the
mountains, this fairy-like work coming from the hands of these poor
creatures, and the trifling sum they realize shocks the traveller. They
would cheerfully give you for twenty sous what they ask twenty francs
for in Paris, if they were allowed to trade with the consumer; but this
is strictly forbidden. Under the pretext of having furnished silk,
thread, and patterns, the dealer monopolizes and sets a price on their
work. In vain you offer to supply the peasant-woman with materials and
pay her well. The poor woman sighs, looks at the money, shakes her head,
and replies that she will not risk losing the patronage of 'her master'
in order to profit by the liberality of a person who will not employ her
permanently, and whom she may possibly never see again. And then all
these women are pious, or pretend to be so. Those who are sincere have
sworn by the Virgin and the saints not to sell to individuals, and one
is forced to honor their respect for a promise given. Those who make
religion a regular profession (and I see there are more such than one
would suppose) are conscious of being always under the hand and beneath
the eye of the priests, nuns, monks, and seminarists, with whom this
country is literally sown and covered even in the most uninhabitable
places. The convents have the work done; and here, as elsewhere, under
conditions of trade still more lucrative than those of the dealers. You
can see, in the vestibules of the churches even, the women from the
village in a sort of community, sitting in a circle, making their
bobbins fly as they murmur litanies or chant offices in Latin; which
does not, however, prevent them from gazing curiously at the passers-by
and exchanging remarks, while they reply _ora pro nobis_ to the gray,
black, or blue sister who oversees the work and the psalmody.
"These women are generally kind and hospitable. Their children interest
me, and when I find those who are ill, I am glad to be able to point out
the more simple attentions that should be given them. There is either
great ignorance or great indifference on this point. Maternity here is
rather passionate than tender. It is as if they told you that children
are created for the single purpose of learning how to suffer.
"Peyraque's business, as his services are much in demand, leads us into
some almost inaccessible places on the mountain, giving me a chance to
see the finest landscapes in the world, for this wonderful country is
like a dream,--and my own life is a strange dream also, is it not?
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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