The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable RuinsAllen, Grant
History
The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable Ruins
Allen, Grant
Europe, Southern -- Description and travel; Mediterranean Region -- Description and travel
The Golfe de la Napoule ends at the Croisette of Cannes, a long, low
promontory carried out into the sea by a submarine bank, whose farthest
points re-emerge as the two Iles Lérins, Ste. Marguerite and St. Honorat.
Their names are famous in history. A little steamer plies from Cannes to
"the Islands," as everybody calls them locally; and the trip, in calm
weather, if the Alps are pleased to shine out, is a pleasant and
instructive one. Ste. Marguerite lies somewhat the nearer of the two, a
pretty little islet, covered with a thick growth of maritime pines, and
celebrated as the prison of that mysterious being, the Man with the Iron
Mask, who has given rise to so much foolish and fruitless speculation.
Near the landing-place stands the Fort, perched on a high cliff and
looking across to the Croisette. Uninteresting in itself, this old
fortification is much visited by wonder-loving tourists for the sake of
its famous prisoner, whose memory still haunts the narrow terrace
corridor, where he paced up and down for seventeen years of unrelieved
captivity.
St. Honorat stands farther out to sea than its sister island, and, though
lower and flatter, is in some ways more picturesque, in virtue of its
massive mediæval monastery and its historical associations. In the early
middle ages, when communications were still largely carried on by water,
the convent of the Iles Lérins enjoyed much reputation as a favorite
stopping-place, one might almost say hotel, for pilgrims to or from Rome;
and most of the early British Christians in their continental wanderings
found shelter at one time or another under its hospitable roof. St.
Augustine stopped here on his way to Canterbury; St. Patrick took the
convent on his road from Ireland; Salvian wrote within its walls his
dismal jeremiad; Vincent de Lérins composed in it his "Pilgrim's Guide."
The somber vaults of the ancient cloister still bear witness by their
astonishingly thick and solid masonry to their double use as monastery and
as place of refuge from the "Saracens," the Barbary corsairs of the ninth,
tenth, and eleventh centuries. Indeed, Paynim fleets plundered the place
more than once, and massacred the monks in cold blood.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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