The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable RuinsAllen, Grant
History
The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable Ruins
Allen, Grant
Europe, Southern -- Description and travel; Mediterranean Region -- Description and travel
Roquebrune itself, which was an Italian Roccabruna when I first knew it,
has a quaint situation of its own, and a quaint story connected with it.
Brown as its own rocks, the tumbled little village stands oddly jumbled in
and out among huge masses of pudding-stone, which must have fallen at some
time or other in headlong confusion from the scarred face of the
neighboring hillside. From the Corniche road it is still quite easy to
recognize the bare patch on the mountain slope whence the landslip
detached itself, and to trace its path down the hill to its existing
position. But local legend goes a little farther than that: it asks us to
believe that the rock fell as we see it _with the houses on top_; in other
words, that the village was built before the catastrophe took place, and
that it glided down piecemeal into the tossed-about form it at present
presents to us. Be this as it may, and the story makes some demand on the
hearer's credulity, it is certain that the houses now occupy most
picturesque positions: here perched by twos and threes on broken masses of
conglomerate, there wedged in between two great walls of beetling cliff,
and yonder again hanging for dear life to some slender foothold on the
precipitous hillside.
We reach the summit of the pass. The Bay of Monaco is separated from the
Bay of Mentone by the long, low-headland of Cap Martin, covered with
olive groves and scrubby maritime pines. As one turns the corner from
Roquebrune by the col round the cliff, there bursts suddenly upon the view
one of the loveliest prospects to be beheld from the Corniche. At our
feet, embowered among green lemons and orange trees, Mentone half hides
itself behind its villas and its gardens. In the middle distance the old
church with its tall Italian campanile stands out against the blue peaks
of that magnificent amphitheater. Beyond, again, a narrow gorge marks the
site of the Pont St. Louis and the Italian frontier. Farther eastward the
red rocks merge half indistinctly into the point of La Mortola, with Mr.
Hanbury's famous garden; then come the cliffs and fortifications of
Ventimiglia, gleaming white in the sun; and last of all, the purple hills
that hem in San Remo. It is an appropriate approach to a most lovely spot;
for Mentone ranks high for beauty, even among her bevy of fair sisters on
the Ligurian sea-board.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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