The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable RuinsAllen, Grant
History
The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable Ruins
Allen, Grant
Europe, Southern -- Description and travel; Mediterranean Region -- Description and travel
Genova la Superba--Genoa the Proud--an epithet not inappropriate for this
city of merchant princes of olden days, which was once the emporium of the
Tyrrhenian, as was Venice of the Adriatic sea, and the rival of the latter
for the commerce of the Eastern Mediterranean. No two cities, adapted to
play a similar part in history, could be more unlike in their natural
environments: Venice clustered on a series of mud banks, parted by an
expanse of water from a low coast-line, beyond which the far-away
mountains rise dimly in the distance, a fleet, as it were, of houses
anchored in the shallows of the Adriatic; Genoa stretching along the shore
by the deepening water, at the very feet of the Apennines, climbing up
their slopes, and crowning their lower summits with its watch-towers. No
seaport in Italy possesses a site so rich in natural beauty, not even
Spezzia in its bay, for though the scenery in the neighborhood certainly
surpasses that around Genoa, the town itself is built upon an almost level
plain; not even Naples itself, notwithstanding the magnificent sweep of
its bay, dominated by the volcanic cone of Vesuvius, and bounded by the
limestone crags of the range of Monte S. Angelo. Genoa, however, like all
places and persons, has had its detractors. Perhaps of no town has a more
bitter sarcasm been uttered, than the well known one, which no doubt
originated in the mouth of some envious Tuscan, when the two peoples were
contending for the mastery of the western sea, and the maker of the
epigram was on the losing side. Familiar as it is to many, we will venture
to quote it again, as it may be rendered in our own tongue: "Treeless
hills, a fishless sea, faithless men, shameless women." As to the reproach
in the first clause, one must admit there is still some truth; and in
olden days, when gardens were fewer and more land was left in its natural
condition, there may have been even more point. The hills around Genoa
undoubtedly seem a little barren, when compared with those on the Riviera
some miles farther to the south, with their extraordinary luxuriance of
vegetation, their endless slopes of olives, which only cease to give place
to oak and pine and myrtle. There is also, I believe, some truth in the
second clause; but as to the rest it is not for a comparative stranger to
express an opinion. So far however as the men are concerned the reproach
is not novel. Centuries since, Liguria, of which Genoa is the principal
town, was noted for the cunning and treacherous disposition of its people,
who ethnologically differ considerably from their neighbors. In Virgil's
"Æneid" a Ligurian chief shows more cunning than courage in a fight with
an Amazon, and is thus apostrophized before receiving his death-blow from
a woman's hand: "In vain, O shifty one, hast thou tried thy hereditary
craft." The people of this part of Italy form one of a series of
ethnological islands; where a remnant, by no means inconsiderable, of an
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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