The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable RuinsAllen, Grant
History
The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable Ruins
Allen, Grant
Europe, Southern -- Description and travel; Mediterranean Region -- Description and travel
The great statesman lies in the neighboring church, with other members of
his family, and over the high altar hangs the sword which was given to him
by the Pope. The church was greatly altered--embellished it was doubtless
supposed--by Doria himself; but the old cloisters, dating from the
earliest part of the fourteenth century, still remain intact. The grander
palazzo which he erected, as an inscription outside still informs us, was
in a more open, and doubtless then more attractive, part of the city. In
the days of Doria it stood in ample gardens, which extended on one side
down to a terrace overlooking the harbor, on the other some distance up
the hillside. From the back of the palace an elaborate structure of
ascending flight of steps in stone led up to a white marble colossal
statue of Hercules, which from this elevated position seemed to keep watch
over the home of the Dorias and the port of Genoa. All this is sadly
changed; the admiral would now find little pleasure in his once stately
home. It occupies a kind of peninsula between two streams of
twentieth-century civilization. Between the terrace wall and the sea the
railway connecting the harbor with the main line has intervened, with its
iron tracks, its sheds, and its shunting-places--a dreary unsightly
outlook, for the adjuncts of a terminus are usually among the most ugly
appendages of civilization. The terraced staircase on the opposite side of
the palace has been swept away by the main line of the railway, which
passes within a few yards of its façade, thus severing the gardens and
isolating the shrine of Hercules, who looks down forlornly on the result
of labors which even he might have deemed arduous, while snorting,
squealing engines pass and repass--beasts which to him would have seemed
more formidable than Lernæan hydra or Nemaean lion.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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