The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable RuinsAllen, Grant
History
The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable Ruins
Allen, Grant
Europe, Southern -- Description and travel; Mediterranean Region -- Description and travel
The environs of Genoa are pleasant. On both sides, particularly on the
eastern, are country houses with gardens. The western for a time is less
attractive. The suburb of Sanpierdarena is neither pretty nor interesting;
but at Conigliano, and still more at Sestre Ponente, the grimy
finger-marks of commerce become less conspicuous, and Nature is not wholly
expelled by the two-pronged fork of mechanism. Pegli, still farther west,
is a very attractive spot, much frequented in the summer time for
sea-bathing. On this part of the coast the hills in places draw near to
the sea, and crags rise from the water; the rocks are of interest in more
than one respect to the geologist. One knoll of rock rising from the sand
in the Bay of Pra is crowned by an old fortress, and at Pegli itself are
one or two villas of note. Of these the gardens of the Villa Pallavicini
commonly attract visitors. They reward some by stalactite grottoes and
"sheets of water with boats, under artificial caverns, a Chinese pagoda,
and an Egyptian obelisk;" others will be more attracted by the beauty of
the vegetation, for palms and oleanders, myrtles, and camellias, with
many semi-tropical plants, flourish in the open air.
We may regard Genoa as the meeting-place of the two Rivieras. The coast to
the west--the Riviera di Ponente--what has now, by the cession of Nice,
become in part French soil, is the better known; but that to the east, the
Riviera di Levante, though less accessible on the whole, and without such
an attractive feature as the Corniche road, in the judgment of some is
distinctly the more beautiful. There is indeed a road which, for a part of
the way, runs near the sea; but the much more indented character of the
coast frequently forces it some distance inland, and ultimately it has to
cross a rather considerable line of hills in order to reach Spezzia. The
outline of the coast, indeed, is perhaps the most marked feature of
difference between the two Rivieras. The hills on the eastern side descend
far more steeply to the water than they do upon the western. They are much
more sharply furrowed with gullies and more deeply indented by inlets of
the sea; thus the construction of a railway from Genoa to Spezzia has been
a work involving no slight labor. There are, it is stated, nearly fifty
tunnels between the two towns, and it is strictly true that for a large
part of the distance north of the latter place the train is more
frequently under than above ground. Here it is actually an advantage to
travel by the slowest train that can be found, for this may serve as an
epitome of the journey by an express: "Out of a tunnel; one glance,
between rocks and olive-groves, up a ravine, into which a picturesque old
village is wedged; another glance down the same to the sea, sparkling in
the sunlight below; a shriek from the engine, and another plunge into
darkness." So narrow are some of these gullies, up which, however, a
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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