The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable RuinsAllen, Grant
History
The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable Ruins
Allen, Grant
Europe, Southern -- Description and travel; Mediterranean Region -- Description and travel
The Bay of Spezzia is defined sharply enough on its western side by the
long, hilly peninsula which parts it from the Mediterranean, but as this
makes only a small angle with the general trend of the coast-line, its
termination is less strongly marked on the opposite side. Of its beauties
we have spoken in an earlier article, but there is a little town at the
southern extremity which, in connection with the coast below, has a
melancholy interest to every lover of English literature. Here, at Lerici,
Shelley spent what proved to be the last months of his life. The town
itself, once strongly fortified by its Pisan owners against their foes of
Genoa on the one side and Lucca on the other, is a picturesque spot. The
old castle crowns a headland, guarding the little harbor and overlooking
the small but busy town. At a short distance to the southeast is the Casa
Magni, once a Jesuit seminary, which was occupied by Shelley. Looking
across the beautiful gulf to the hills on its opposite shore and the
island of Porto Venere, but a few miles from the grand group of the
Carrara mountains, in the middle of the luxuriant scenery of the Eastern
Riviera, the house, though in itself not very attractive, was a fit home
for a lover of nature. But Shelley's residence within its walls was too
soon cut short. There are strange tales (like those told with bated breath
by old nurses by the fireside) that as the closing hour approached the
spirits of the unseen world took bodily form and became visible to the
poet's eye; tales of a dark-robed figure standing by his bedside beckoning
him to follow; of a laughing child rising from the sea as he walked by
moonlight on the terrace, clapping its hands in glee; and of other
warnings that the veil which parted him from the spirit world was
vanishing away. Shelley delighted in the sea. On the 1st of July he left
Lerici for Leghorn in a small sailing vessel. On the 8th he set out to
return, accompanied only by his friend, Mr. Williams, and an English lad.
The afternoon was hot and sultry, and as the sun became low a fearful
squall burst upon the neighboring sea. What happened no one exactly knows,
but they never came back to the shore. Day followed day, and the great sea
kept its secret; but at last, on the 22d, the corpse of Shelley was washed
up near Viareggio and that of Williams near Bocca Lerici, three miles
away. It was not till three weeks afterwards that the body of the sailor
lad came ashore. Probably the felucca had either capsized or had been
swamped at the first break of the storm; but when it was found, some three
months afterwards, men said that it looked as if it had been run down, and
even more ugly rumors got abroad that this was no accident, but the work
of some Italians, done in the hope of plunder, as it was expected that the
party had in charge a considerable sum of money. The bodies were at first
buried in the sand with quicklime; but at that time the Tuscan law
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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