The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable RuinsAllen, Grant
History
The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable Ruins
Allen, Grant
Europe, Southern -- Description and travel; Mediterranean Region -- Description and travel
Leghorn is intersected by canals, sufficiently so to have been sometimes
called a "Little Venice," and has been fortified, but as the defenses
belong to the system of Vauban, they add little to either the interest or
the picturesqueness of the place. Parts of the walls and the citadel
remain, the latter being enclosed by a broad water-ditch. The principal
street has some good shops, and there are two fairly large piazzas; in
one, bearing the name of Carlo Alberto, are statues of heroic size to the
last Grand Duke and to his predecessor. The inscription on the latter is
highly flattering; but that on the former states that the citizens had
come to the conclusion that the continuance of the Austro-Lorenese dynasty
was incompatible with the good order and happiness of Tuscany, and had
accordingly voted union with Italy. The other piazza now bears Victor
Emmanuel's name; in it are a building which formerly was a royal palace,
the town hall, and the cathedral; the last a fair-sized church, but a
rather plain specimen of the Renaissance style, with some handsome columns
of real marble and a large amount of imitation, painted to match. There
are also some remains of the old fortifications, though they are not so
very old, by the side of the inner or original harbor. As this in course
of time proved too shallow for vessels of modern bulk, the Porto Nuovo, or
outer harbor, was begun nearly fifty years since, and is protected from
the waves by a semicircular mole. Among the other lions of the place, and
they are all very small, is a statue of Duke Ferdinand I., one of the
founders of Leghorn, with four Turkish slaves about the pedestal. The
commerce of Leghorn chiefly consists of grain, cotton, wool, and silk, and
is carried on mainly with the eastern ports of the Mediterranean. There is
also an important shipbuilding establishment. It has, however, one link of
interest with English literature, for in the Protestant cemetery was
buried Tobias Smollet. There is a pleasant public walk by the sea margin
outside the town, from where distant views of Elba and other islands are
obtained.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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