The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable RuinsAllen, Grant
History
The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable Ruins
Allen, Grant
Europe, Southern -- Description and travel; Mediterranean Region -- Description and travel
A long line of islands completely shelters Venice from the sea, so that
the waters around its walls are very seldom ruffled into waves. The tide
also rises and falls but little, not more than two or three feet, if so
much. Thus no banks of pestiferous mud are laid bare at low water by the
ebb and flow, and yet some slight circulation is maintained in the canals,
which, were it not for this, would be as intolerable as cesspools. Small
boats can find their way over most parts of the lagoon, where in many
places a safe route has to be marked out with stakes, but for large
vessels the channels are few. A long island, Malamocco by name, intervenes
between Venice and the Adriatic, on each side of which are the chief if
not the only entrances for large ships. At its northern end is the sandy
beach of the Lido, a great resort of the Venetians, for there is good
sea-bathing. But except this, Malamocco has little to offer; there is more
interest in other parts of the lagoon. At the southern end, some fifteen
miles away, the old town of Chioggia is a favorite excursion. On the sea
side the long fringe of narrow islands, of which Malamocco is one,
protected by massive walls, forms a barrier against the waves of the
Adriatic. On the land side is the dreary fever-haunted region of the
_Laguna Morta_, like a vast fen, beyond which rise the serrate peaks of
the Alps and the broken summits of the Euganean Hills. The town itself,
the Roman Fossa Claudia, is a smaller edition of Venice, joined like it to
the mainland by a bridge. If it has fewer relics of architectural value it
has suffered less from modern changes, and has retained much more of its
old-world character.
Murano, an island or group of islands, is a tiny edition of Venice, and a
much shorter excursion, for it lies only about a mile and a half away to
the north of the city. Here is the principal seat of the workers in glass;
here are made those exquisite reproductions of old Venetian glass and of
ancient mosaic which have made the name of Salviati noted in all parts of
Europe. Here, too, is a cathedral which, though it has suffered from time,
neglect and restoration, is still a grand relic. At the eastern end there
is a beautiful apse enriched by an arcade and decorated with inlaid
marbles, but the rest of the exterior is plain. As usual in this part of
Italy (for the external splendor of St. Mark's is exceptional) all
richness of decoration is reserved for the interior. Here columns of
choice stones support the arches; there is a fine mosaic in the eastern
apse, but the glory of Murano is its floor, a superb piece of _opus
Alexandrinum_, inlaid work of marbles and porphyries, bearing date early
in the eleventh century, and richer in design than even that at St.
Mark's, for peacocks and other birds, with tracery of strange design, are
introduced into its patterns.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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