The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable RuinsAllen, Grant
History
The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable Ruins
Allen, Grant
Europe, Southern -- Description and travel; Mediterranean Region -- Description and travel
In the middle of the square stands a handsome equestrian statue of Mehemet
Ali which is, in one respect, probably unique. The Mohammedan religion
demands the strictest interpretation of the injunction in the decalogue
against making "to thyself any craven image," and consequently a statue to
a follower of the creed of Mahomet is rarely seen in a Mohammedan country.
The erection of this particular monument was much resented by the more
orthodox of the Mussulman population of Alexandria, and the religious
feelings of the mob manifested themselves in riots and other hostile
demonstrations. Not only representations in stone or metal, but any kind
of likeness of the human form is thought impious by Mohammedans. They
believe that the author will be compelled on the Resurrection Day to indue
with life the sacrilegious counterfeit presentment. Tourists in Egypt who
are addicted to sketching, or who dabble in photography, will do well to
remember these conscientious scruples of the Moslem race, and not let
their zeal for bringing back pictorial mementoes of their travels induce
them to take "snapshots" of mosque interiors, for instance. In Egypt, no
doubt, the natives have too wholesome a dread of the Franks to manifest
their outraged feelings by physical force, but still it is ungenerous, not
to say unchristian, to wound people's religious prejudices. In some other
countries of North Africa, notably in the interior of Morocco or Tripoli,
promiscuous photography might be attended with disagreeable results, if
not a certain amount of danger. A tourist would find a Kodak camera, even
with all the latest improvements, a somewhat inefficient weapon against a
mob of fanatical Arabs.
That imposing pile standing out so prominently on the western horn of
Pharos is the palace of Ras-et-Teen, built by Mehemet Ali, and restored in
execrable taste by his grandson, the ex-Khedive Ismail. Seen from the
ship's side, the palace has a rather striking appearance. The exterior,
however, is the best part of it, as the ornate and gaudy interior contains
little of interest. From the upper balconies there is a good view of the
harbor, and the gardens are well worth visiting. They are prettily laid
out, and among many other trees, olives may be seen, unknown in any other
part of the Delta. The decorations and appointments of the interior are
characterized by a tawdry kind of magnificence. The incongruous mixture of
modern French embellishments and oriental splendor gives the saloons a
meretricious air, and the effect is bizarre and unpleasing. It is a relief
to get away from such obtrusive evidences of the ex-Khedive's decorative
tastes, by stepping out on the balcony. What a forest of masts meets the
eye as one looks down on the vast harbor; the inner one, a "sea within a
sea," crowded with vessels bearing the flags of all nations, and full of
animation and movement.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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