The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable RuinsAllen, Grant
History
The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable Ruins
Allen, Grant
Europe, Southern -- Description and travel; Mediterranean Region -- Description and travel
watercourses are bald, owing to the absence of wood; for what timber grew
in ancient times has long ago been hewn down, and the modern Maltee has so
inveterate a prejudice against green leaves which are not saleable that he
is said to have quietly uprooted the trees which a paternal Government
planted for the supposed benefit of unappreciative children. Hence, with
the exception of a bosky grove around some ancient palace of the knights,
or a few carob trees, so low that the goats in lack of humble fodder can,
as in Morocco, climb into them for a meal, the rural districts of Malta
lack the light and shade which forests afford, just as its arid scenery is
unrelieved either by lake, or river, or by any brook worthy of the name.
However, as the blue sea, running into inlet and bay, or ending the vista
of some narrow street, or driving the spray before the "tempestuous" wind,
called "Euroklydon," is seldom out of sight, the sparkle of inland water
is less missed than it would be were the country larger.
But Malta proper is only one of the Maltese group. As the geography books
have it, there are three main islands, Malta, Gozo, and between them the
little one of Comino, which with Cominetto, a still smaller islet close
by, seems to have been the crest of a land of old, submerged beneath the
sea. The voyager is barely out of sight of Sicily before the faint
outlines of these isles are detected, like sharply defined clouds against
a serenely blue sky. Yet, undeniably, the first view of Malta is
disappointing; for with Etna fresh in the memory of the visitor from one
direction, and the great Rock of Gibraltar vivid in the recollection of
those arriving from the other end of the Mediterranean, there is little in
any of the three islands to strike the imagination. For most of the
picturesqueness of Malta is due to the works of man, and all of its
romance to the great names and mighty events with which its historic
shores are associated. But there are also around the coasts of this major
member of the Maltese clump the tiny Filfla, with its venerable church;
the Pietro Negro, or Black Rock; Gzeier sanctified by the wreck of St.
Paul; and Scoglio Marfo, on which a few fishermen encamp, or which grow
grass enough for some rabbits or a frugal goat or two; and, great in fame
though small in size, the Hagra tal General, or Fungus Rock, on which
still flourishes that curious parasitic plant, the _Fungus Melitensis_ of
the old botanists, the _Cynomorium coccineum_ of latter-day systematists.
The visitor who has the curiosity to land on the rock in April or May will
find it in full flower, and perhaps, considering its ancient reputation,
may be rather disappointed with the appearance of a weed which at one time
enjoyed such a reputation as a stauncher of blood and a sovereign remedy
for a host of other diseases that the Knights of Malta stored it carefully
as a gift for friendly monarchs and to the hospitals of the island. It is
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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