The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable RuinsAllen, Grant
History
The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable Ruins
Allen, Grant
Europe, Southern -- Description and travel; Mediterranean Region -- Description and travel
The appearance of the Gozitans also is somewhat different from that of
their countrymen elsewhere, and they speak the Maltese tongue with a
closer approach to the Arabic than do the inhabitants of the other
islands, whose speech has become intermingled with that of every
Mediterranean race, from the Tyrians to the Italians, though the basis of
it is unquestionably Phoenician, and is gradually getting dashed with the
less sonorous language of their latest rulers. Indeed, the lamps in daily
use are identical in shape with the earthenware ones disinterred from the
most ancient of Carthaginian tombs, and until lately a peculiar jargon,
allied to Hebrew, and known as "Braik," was spoken at Casal Garbo, an
inland village not far from the bay off which lies the General's Rock. But
the Gozo folk nowadays trade neither in tin nor in purple, their
gaily-painted boats crossing the Straits of Freghi with no more romantic
cargoes than cabbages and cucumbers for His Majesty's ships; and the
swarthy damsels who sit at the half-doors of the white houses are intent
on nothing so much as the making of the famous Maltese lace. Except,
however, in the strength, industry, and thrift of the Gozitans, there is
little in this island to remind the visitor of their Phoenician
forefathers, and in a few years, owing to the steady intercourse which
daily steam communication has brought about between them and their less
sophisticated countrymen, the "Giant's Tower" (the ruins of a temple of
Astarte) at Casal Xghara will be about the only remnant of these
pre-historic settlers. But Casal Nadur, with its robust men and handsome
women, the Tierka Zerka or Azure Window, a natural arch on the seashore,
and Rabato, the little capital in the center of the island, which, in
honor of the Jubilee year, changed its name for that of Victoria, are all
worthy of a walk farther afield than Migiarro, or the "carting place," off
which the Valletta steamer anchors. From the ruined walls of the citadel
the visitor can survey Gozo with its conical hills, flattened at the top
owing to the wearing away of the upper limestone by the action of the
weather and sinking of the underlying greensand, the whole recalling a
volcano-dotted region. Then, if he cares to tarry so long, the sightseer
may from this pleasant center tramp or drive to the Bay of Ramla, in a
rock overhanging which is another "Grotto of Calypso," or to the Bay of
Marsa-il-Forno, or to the Bay of Xlendi, through a well-watered ravine
filled with fruit-trees, a walk which offers an opportunity of seeing the
best cliff scenery in the island; or, finally, to the Cala Dueira, hard by
which is the General's Rock, which (as we already know) forms one of the
chief lions of Gozo. Comino with its caves will not detain the most eager
of sightseers very long, and its scanty industries, incapable of
supporting more than forty people, are not calculated to arouse much
enthusiasm.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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