The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable RuinsAllen, Grant
History
The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable Ruins
Allen, Grant
Europe, Southern -- Description and travel; Mediterranean Region -- Description and travel
The Palazzo Reale may doubtless too be remembered by him, as affording him
the point of view from which he has obtained his first idea of the
unrivaled situation of Palermo. From the flat roof of the Observatory,
fitted up in the tower of S. Ninfa, a noble panorama lies stretched around
us. The spectator is standing midway between Amphitrite and the Golden
Shell that she once cast in sport upon the shore. Behind him lies the
Conca d'Oro, with the range of mountains against which it rests, Grifone
and Cuccio, and the Billieni Hills, and the road to Monreale winding up
the valley past La Rocca; in front lies the noble curve of the gulf, from
Cape Mongerbino to the port, the bold outlines of Monte Pellegrino, the
Bay of Mondello still farther to the left, and Capo di Gallo completing
the coast-line with its promontory dimly peering through the haze.
Palermo, however, does not perhaps unveil the full beauty of its situation
elsewhere than down at the sea's edge, with the city nestling in the curve
behind one and Pellegrino rising across the waters in front.
But the environs of the city, which are of peculiar interest and
attraction, invite us, and first among these is Monreale, at a few miles'
distance, a suburb to which the traveller ascends by a road commanding at
every turn some new and striking prospect of the bay. On one hand as he
leaves the town, lies the Capuchin Monastery, attractive with its
catacombs of mummified ex-citizens of Palermo to the lover of the gruesome
rather than of the picturesque. Farther on is the pretty Villa Tasca, then
La Rocca, whence by a winding road of very ancient construction we climb
the royal mount crowned by the famous Cathedral and Benedictine Abbey of
Monreale. Here more mosaics, as has been said, as fine in quality and in
even greater abundance than those which decorate the interior of the
Cappella Palatina; they cover, it is said, an area of seventy thousand
four hundred square feet. From the Cathedral we pass into the beautiful
cloisters, and thence into the fragrant orange-garden, from which another
delightful view of the valley towards Palermo is obtained. San Martino,
the site of a suppressed Benedictine monastery, is the next spot of
interest. A steep path branching off to the right from Monreale leads to a
deserted fort, named Il Castellaccio, from which the road descends as far
as S. Martino, whence a pleasant journey back to Palermo is made through
the picturesque valley of Bocca di Falco.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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