The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable RuinsAllen, Grant
History
The Mediterranean: Its Storied Cities and Venerable Ruins
Allen, Grant
Europe, Southern -- Description and travel; Mediterranean Region -- Description and travel
We leave Sorrento and its gardens and continue our excursion to Amalfi and
Salerno. After reaching the point at the summit of the Colline del Piano,
whence we get our first view of the famous Isles of the Syrens, looking
far more picturesque than inviting, with their sharp, jagged outline, we
come in sight of a magnificent stretch of cliff and mountain scenery. The
limestone precipices extend uninterruptedly for miles, their outline
broken by a series of stupendous pinnacles, turrets, obelisks, and
pyramids cutting sharply into the blue sky-line. The scenery, though so
wild and bold is not bleak and dismal. The bases of these towering
precipices are covered with a wild tangle of myrtle, arbutus, and
tamarisk, and wild vines and prickly pears have taken root in the ledges
and crevices. The ravines and gorges which relieve the uniformity of this
great sea-wall of cliff have their lower slopes covered with terraced and
trellised orchards of lemons and oranges, an irregular mass of green and
gold. Positano, after Amalfi, is certainly the most picturesque place on
these shores, and, being less known, and consequently not so much
reproduced in idealized sketches and "touched up" photographs as Amalfi,
its first view must come upon the traveller rather as a delightful
surprise. Its situation is curious. The town is built along each side of a
huge ravine, cut off from access landwards by an immense wall of
precipices. The houses climb the craggy slopes in an irregular
ampitheater, at every variety of elevation and level, and the views from
the heights above give a general effect of a cataract of houses having
been poured down each side of the gorge. After a few miles of the grandest
cliff and mountain scenery we reach the Capo di Conca, which juts out into
the bay, dividing it into two crescents. Looking west, we see a broad
stretch of mountainous country, where
"... A few white villages
Scattered above, below, some in the clouds,
Some on the margins of the dark blue sea,
And glittering through their lemon groves, announce
The region of Amalfi."
To attempt to describe Amalfi seems a hopeless task. The churches, towers,
and arcaded houses, scattered about in picturesque confusion on each side
of the gigantic gorge which cleaves the precipitous mountain, gay with the
rich coloring of Italian domestic architecture, make up an indescribably
picturesque medley of loggias, arcades, balconies, domes, and cupolas,
relieved by flat, whitewashed roofs. The play of color produced by the
dazzling glare of the sun and the azure amplitude of sea and sky gives
that general effect of light, color, sunshine, and warmth of atmosphere
which is so hard to portray, either with the brush or the pen. Every nook
of this charming little rock-bound Eden affords tempting material for the
artist, and the whole region is rich in scenes suggestive of poetical
ideas.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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