The Memoirs of François René Vicomte de Chateaubriand sometime Ambassador to England, Volume 1 (of 6): Mémoires d'outre-tombe, volume 1Chateaubriand, François-René, vicomte de
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The Memoirs of François René Vicomte de Chateaubriand sometime Ambassador to England, Volume 1 (of 6): Mémoires d'outre-tombe, volume 1
Chateaubriand, François-René, vicomte de
Chateaubriand, François-René, vicomte de, 1768-1848
I dined two or three times with the Governor, a very polite and
obliging officer. On a sloping bank he grew a few European vegetables.
After dinner he showed me what he called his garden. A delicate
and fragrant odour of heliotrope was exhaled from a small patch of
flowering beans; it was not wafted to us by a gentle breeze from home,
but by a wild Newfoundland wind, having no connection with the exiled
plant, no sympathy of remembrance or delight. In this perfume no longer
inhaled by beauty, purified in its breast, or diffused upon its path,
in this perfume of a changed dawn, cultivation and world, lurked all
the several melancholies of regrets, absence, and youth.
From the garden we mounted towards the hills, and stopped at the foot
of the flag-staff of the look-out. The new French flag waved over
our heads; like Virgil's women, we looked at the sea, _flentes_:
it separated us from our native land! The Governor was uneasy: he
belonged to the defeated opinion; he was bored, moreover, in this
sequestered spot, which was suited to a visionary like myself, but
which was a thankless habitation for a man interested in affairs and
not endowed with the all-filling passion which causes the rest of the
world to disappear from view. My host inquired after the Revolution;
I asked him for news of the North-West Passage. He was in the van of
the wilderness, but he knew nothing of the Esquimaux and from Canada
received nothing save partridges.
One morning I had gone alone to the _Cap-à-l'Aigle_, or Eagle Head, to
see the sun rise in the direction of France. There, a wintry brook
formed a cascade which with its last leap reached the sea. I sat down
upon a projecting rock, my feet hanging over the water which broke
into foam at the bottom of the cliff. A young fisher-girl appeared
on the upper slopes of the hill-side; she was bare-legged, in spite
of the cold, and walked in the dew. Her black hair was carelessly
twisted under the figured silk kerchief bound round her head; over this
kerchief she wore a hat made out of the reed-grass of the country and
shaped like a cradle or boat. A bunch of purple heather peeped out from
her bosom, which was outlined beneath the white material of her shift.
From time to time she stooped to gather the leaves of an aromatic plant
known in the island as "homegrown tea." With one hand she dropped
these leaves into a basket which she carried in the other. She saw
me: without being frightened, she came and sat down by me, placed her
basket within reach, and began like myself to look at the sun, her legs
swinging over the sea.
[Sidenote: The fisher-girl.]
We remained some minutes without speaking; at last I proved myself the
bolder, and asked:
"What are you gathering there? The season for bilberries and atocas is
over."
She opened two large, dark, shy, but proud eyes, and answered:
"I was picking tea."
She showed me her basket.
"Are you taking the tea home to your father and mother?"
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