The Memoirs of François René Vicomte de Chateaubriand sometime Ambassador to England, Volume 1 (of 6): Mémoires d'outre-tombe, volume 1Chateaubriand, François-René, vicomte de
General
The Memoirs of François René Vicomte de Chateaubriand sometime Ambassador to England, Volume 1 (of 6): Mémoires d'outre-tombe, volume 1
Chateaubriand, François-René, vicomte de
Chateaubriand, François-René, vicomte de, 1768-1848
The _flora_ of Saint-Pierre is the same as that of Lapland and
Magellan's Straits. The number of plants diminishes as one proceeds
towards the Pole; in Spitzbergen we find only forty species of
phanerogamous plants. In changing their habitation, races of plants
become extinct: some which dwell in the frozen steppes in the North
become daughters of the mountain in the South; others which thrive in
the peaceful atmosphere of the thickest forests decrease in strength
and size until at last they expire on the stormy strands of the ocean.
At Saint-Pierre, the marsh myrtle (_vaccinium fugilinosum_) is reduced
to the condition of creeping grasses; it will soon be buried in the
wadding and cushions of the mosses which serve as its soil. Myself
a passenger plant, I have taken my precautions to disappear by the
sea-shore, the site of my birth.
The slope of the hillocks of Saint-Pierre is laid over with
balsam-trees, medlars, dwarf palms, larches, black firs, the gems of
which are used for brewing an antiscorbutic beer. These trees do not
exceed a man's stature. The ocean wind pollards them, shakes them,
bends them like so many ferns; then, gliding beneath these forests
of shrubs, it raises them again; but it finds no trunks there, nor
branches, nor arches, nor echoes to wail among, and it makes no more
noise than on a heath.
These rickety woods form a contrast with the great forests of
Newfoundland, whose fir-trees bear a silver lichen (_alectoria
trichodes_): the polar bears seem to have torn their fur against the
branches of those trees, of which they are the strange creepers. The
swamps of Jacques Cartier's[462] island contain roads beaten by these
bears: it is as though one saw rustic footpaths in the neighbourhood of
a sheep-fold. The whole night reechoes with the cries of these famished
beasts; the traveller is comforted only by the no less mournful sound
of the sea: those waves, so unsociable and so rude, become friends and
companions.
The northernmost point of Newfoundland touches the latitude of Cape
Charles I. in Labrador; a few degrees higher, the polar landscape
commences. If we are to believe the travellers, a charm lies upon
those regions: in the evening the sun, touching the earth, seems to
stay motionless, and subsequently reascends the sky instead of sinking
beneath the horizon. The snow-clad mountains, the valleys carpeted
with white moss upon which the reindeer browse, the seas covered with
whales and strewn with ice-bergs, this whole scene glitters, lighted as
it were at one time by the gleam of the setting sun and the light of
dawn: one knows not whether he is assisting at the creation or the end
of the world. A little bird, similar to that which sings in our woods
at night, utters a plaintive warbling. Then love leads the Esquimaux
to the icy rock where his mate awaits him: those human nuptials at the
extreme boundaries of the earth lack neither dignity nor happiness.
*
[Sidenote: We leave Saint-Pierre.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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