The Memoirs of Madame Vigée LebrunVigée-Lebrun, Louise-Elisabeth
History
The Memoirs of Madame Vigée Lebrun
Vigée-Lebrun, Louise-Elisabeth
Painters -- France -- Biography; Portrait painting, French -- 18th century; Vigée-Lebrun, Louise-Elisabeth, 1755-1842
Relating to dinners, I may say here that certainly the saddest I ever
went to at St. Petersburg was at a sister's of Zuboff, where I had
neglected to present a letter of introduction. Six months of my
sojourn in Russia had gone by, when I met her one evening coming out
of the theatre. She stepped over to me and said most politely that she
was still waiting for a letter which had been given to me for her.
Scarcely knowing what excuse to make, I replied that I had mislaid the
letter, but that I would look for it again and hasten to bring it to
her. I accordingly went one morning to visit the Countess D----, and
she invited me to dine with her the day after the next. It was then
the custom all over St. Petersburg to dine at half-past two, and I
therefore went to the Countess's at that hour with my daughter, who
was also invited. We were conducted to a very melancholy drawing-room,
on the way to which I observed no preparations whatever for dinner.
One hour, two hours went by, but there was no more question of sitting
down to table than if we had just taken our morning coffee. At last
two servants came in and opened several card-tables, and although it
seemed rather strange to me that any one should eat in a drawing-room,
I flattered myself that dinner was now to be served. But I was wrong.
The servants went out, and in a few minutes a number of the guests
had settled down to play cards. About six o'clock my poor daughter and
I were so starved that, when we looked into a mirror, we were
frightened and sorry for ourselves. I felt as if I should die. Not
until half-past seven were we informed that the meal was ready; but
our poor stomachs had gone through too much agony; we were unable to
eat anything at all. I then found out that the Countess D---- dined at
the hour usual in London. The Countess ought to have notified me, but
perhaps she imagined that the whole universe was aware of her dinner
hour.
As a rule, nothing was more distasteful to me than to dine in town,
but I was sometimes obliged to do it, especially in Russia, where one
runs a risk of mortally offending people if one declines their
invitations too often. I disliked the dinners the more as there were
such a number of them. They were highly luxurious; most of the
nobility had very good French cooks, and the fare was incomparable. A
quarter of an hour before the guests sat down at table a servant would
pass round a tray with all sorts of cordials and small slices of
buttered bread. No cordials were taken after dinner, but always
superior Malaga wine.
It is the custom in Russia for the great ladies, even at their own
houses, to go into table before the guests, so that the Princess
Dolgoruki and others would take me by the arm, in order that I might
go in at the same time as they, for it would be impossible to exceed
the Russian ladies in the urbanities of good society. I will even go
so far as to say that they are without the haughtiness chargeable to
some of our French ladies.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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