"What is there to do in Paris in August but to enjoy oneself?" I
asked. "I have made friends with an _apache_ and his _gigolette_. We
eat bread and cheese and drink bad wine on the fortifications.... In
the afternoon I walk. Sometimes I go to the Luxembourg gardens to hear
the band bray sad music, or to watch the little boys play _diavolo_,
or sail their tiny boats about the fountain pond; sometimes I walk
quite silently up the Avenue Gabriel, with its _triste_ line of trees,
and dream that I am a Grand Duke; in the evening there are again the
_terrasses_ of the cafes, dinner in Montmartre at the Clou, or the
Cou-Cou, a _revue_ at La Cigale, but it is all governed, my day and my
night, by what happens and by whom I meet.... Have you seen Jacques
Blanche's portrait of Nijinsky?"
"I think it is Picasso that interests me now," Sitgreaves was saying.
"He puts wood and pieces of paper into his composition; architecture,
that's what it is.... I don't go to Blanche's any more. It's too
delightfully perfect, the atmosphere there.... The books are by all
the famous writers, and they are all dedicated to Blanche; the
pictures are all of the great men of today, and they are all painted
by Blanche; the music is played by the best musicians.... Do you know,
I think Blanche is the one man who has made a successful profession of
being an amateur--unless one excepts Robert de la Condamine.... You
can scarcely call a man who does so much a dilettante. Yes, I think he
is an amateur in the best sense."
"I met the Countess of Jena there the other day," I responded. "She
had scarcely left the room before three people volunteered, _sans
rancune_, to tell her story. She is a devout Catholic, and her husband
contrived in some way to substitute a spy for the priest in the
confessional. He acquired an infinite amount of information, but it
didn't do him any good. She is so witty that every one invites her
everywhere in spite of her reputation, and he is left to dine alone at
the Meurice. Dull men simply are not tolerated in Paris.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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