The Middle Kingdom, Volume 1 (of 2): A Survey of the Geography, Government, Literature, Social Life, Arts, and History of the Chinese Empire and its InhabitantsWilliams, S. Wells (Samuel Wells)
History
The Middle Kingdom, Volume 1 (of 2): A Survey of the Geography, Government, Literature, Social Life, Arts, and History of the Chinese Empire and its Inhabitants
Williams, S. Wells (Samuel Wells)
China
Puto is a narrow islet, 3-1/2 miles long, and lies 1-1/2 miles from the
eastern point of Chusan. Its surface is covered with sixty monasteries,
pavilions, temples, and other religious buildings, besides grottos and
sundry monuments of superstition, in which at least 2,000 idle priests
chant the praises of their gods. One visitor describes his landing
and ascending “a broad and well-beaten pathway which led to the top
of one of the hills, at every crag and turn of which we encountered a
temple or a grotto, an inscription or an image, with here and there
a garden tastefully laid out, and walks lined with aromatic shrubs,
which diffused a grateful fragrance through the air. The prospect from
these heights was extremely delightful; numerous islands, far and
near, bestudded the main, rocks and precipices above and below, here
and there a mountain monastery rearing its head, and in the valley the
great temple, with its yellow tiles indicative of imperial distinction,
basked like a basilisk in the noonday-sun. All the aid that could be
collected from nature and from Chinese art, was here concentrated
to render the scene enchanting. But to the eye of the Christian
philanthropist it presented a melancholy picture of moral and spiritual
death. The only thing we heard out of the mouths of the priests was
Ometo Fuh; to every observation that was made, re-echoed Ometo Fuh; and
the reply to every inquiry was Ometo Fuh. Each priest was furnished
with a rosary which he was constantly counting, and as he counted
repeated the same senseless, monotonous exclamation. These characters
met the eye at every turn of the road, at every corner of the temples,
and on every scrap of paper; on the bells, on the gateways, and on the
walls, the same words presented themselves; indeed the whole island
seemed to be under the spell of this talismanic phrase, and devoted to
recording and re-echoing Ometo Fuh.”[60] The pristine glory of these
temples has become sadly dimmed, many of the buildings present marks
of decay, and some of the priesthood are obliged to resort to honest
labor in order to gain a living. Deaths in their number are supplied by
purchasing youths, who are taught nothing but religious literature, a
fit training to stunt their minds to pursue the dull mummery of singing
Ometo Fuh. The two imperial temples present good specimens of Chinese
architecture; but they as well as all other things to be seen at Puto
are dilapidated and effete.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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