The Mirror of the Graces: Containing General Instructions for Combining Elegance, Simplicity, and Economy with Fashion in Dress; Hints on Female Accomplishments and Manners; and Directions for the Preservation of Health and BeautyLady of distinction, active 19th century
History
The Mirror of the Graces: Containing General Instructions for Combining Elegance, Simplicity, and Economy with Fashion in Dress; Hints on Female Accomplishments and Manners; and Directions for the Preservation of Health and Beauty
Lady of distinction, active 19th century
Beauty, Personal; Clothing and dress -- Great Britain -- History -- 19th century; Etiquette -- Great Britain
“As a walking habit, we know of none in summer which is more graceful
than the lightly flowing shade of lace or finest muslin. And in winter
no invention can exceed the Trans-Baltic coat or Lapland-wrap. These
comfortable shields from the cold are usually formed of cloth or
velvet, with deep collars and cuffs of sable, or other well-contrasted
fur. Ladies of the first nobility usually have them lined throughout
with the same costly skins. These garments wrap over the figure in
front; sometimes they have them without other ornament than their
bordering furs; and at others, fasten them with magnificent clasps and
buckles. We have seen one of these coats (or, as northern travellers
denominate them, _shoubs_,) on a female of high rank, composed of
crimson-velvet, with deep cuffs, cape and collar of spotted ermine, and
a deep border of the same down the sides. It had a superb effect; and,
with the imperial helmet-hat of the same material, exhibited one of the
most sumptuous carriage costumes that can be imagined.
“When this dress is adopted by the pedestrian fair, we recommend it to
be of a more sober hue, and that the bonnet should be of the provincial
poke or cottage form.
“Short women destroy the symmetry of their forms, and encumber their
charms, with redundancy of ornament, either in their morning or evening
attires. A little woman, befeathered and furbelowed, looks like a queen
of the Bantam tribe; and we dare not approach her for fear of ruffling
her plumes. Feathers are much in vogue; and though formerly a symbol of
full dress, are now often a mark of graceful negligence, and are seen
falling carelessly, and floating with ease; they kiss the rosy cheek
of youth and health; or, less courteous, steal the vermilion from the
painted face of fading maturity, as, fanned by the spiteful breeze,
they wave from her bonneted head in the gay promenade.
“We love to see our countrywomen remarkable for elegance and modesty,
as well as beauty. Englishmen, accustomed to objects of undisputed
loveliness, aim at something beyond the surface of external charms;
they require that all should be fair within.
“Hear what a male writer has observed on the fashion of exposing
the bosom! ‘A woman, proud of her beauty,’ says he, ‘may possibly
be nothing but a coquette; one who makes a public display of her
_bosom_, is something worse.’ This writer insinuates too much; for we
believe that so far from our females being actuated in this case by
any unbecoming motive, they too commonly act from no motive at all,
save that blind and mistaken one which we have so much condemned--_the
heedless adoption of an absurdity because it is the fashion_! But
let the inconsiderate beauty remember, that where two motives can be
assigned to an action, the world will generally adopt that which is
least favorable!”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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