The Modern Athens: A dissection and demonstration of men and things in the Scotch Capital.Mudie, Robert
General
The Modern Athens: A dissection and demonstration of men and things in the Scotch Capital.
Mudie, Robert
Edinburgh (Scotland) -- Description and travel
Of all the objects of Athenian detestation, the greatest, however, seem
to be decently laid out pleasure-grounds, and trees. Strangers used
to say that the rustic Scotch cut down all sorts of bushes, because
ghosts and spirits whistled in them on windy nights; and really, when I
looked at the many fine situations in and about the Athens, which the
Athenians have taken particular care neither to improve nor to plant,
I could not help thinking that this superstition, now banished from
every province in Scotland, has taken up its abode in the Scottish
metropolis. True, they have a public walk round the Calton-Hill, but
that is merely a thing of yesterday; and though they have placed upon
the top of it a monument to Lord Nelson, modelled exactly after a Dutch
skipper’s spy-glass, or a butter churn; an astronomical observatory,
tasteful enough in its design, but not much bigger than a decent
rat-trap, or a twelfth-cake at the Mansion-House; and are to build “the
National Monument;” yet they have never thought of planting so much
as a thistle, but have left the summit of the hill in all its native
bleakness, and allowed it to be so much infested by lazy black-guards
and bare-footed washerwomen, as to be unsafe for respectable females
even at noon-day;--while after dusk this, the most fashionable
promenade of the Athens, is habitually the scene of so much and so
wanton vice, that instead of an ornament to the city, as it might
easily be made, it is a nuisance and a disgrace.
The royal precinct of the Holyrood, which occupies a piece of rich
level ground about the palace, and which stretches a considerable way
up the romantic heights to the south, is, one would think, a chosen
place for taste to display itself upon; and when there are taken
into the account the boast of the Athenians that their Holyrood is
the finest royal palace in Britain, and that other boast which is so
habitual with them that there is no need of repeating it, one would
imagine that among all their boasted improvements the royal precinct
would not have been overlooked; but all that they appear to have done
for it has been to make it as dirty and as desolate as ever they could.
The whole filth of the old town (and that is no small commodity) is
collected in cesspools within a few yards of the palace; and lest
that should not be grateful enough to the Athenian olfactories, a
considerable portion of the adjoining ground is set apart for the
collection of manure from all places. Upon the other parts of the
royal domain, about half a dozen of scraggy and withered trees, and
an old thorn-hedge, more than half of which was when I viewed it
reposing in the lap of its neighbour ditch, are the only attempts at
landscape-gardening; and the grand-children of those by whom they were
planted must, by this time, be in their graves or their dotage.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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