The _table d'hôte_ dinner--the famous "dollar dinner"--of the American
railroad has almost disappeared. The constant increase in foodstuffs is
most largely responsible for this. The Pullman Company long ago gave up
this particular feature of passenger luxury, save in a few isolated cases.
It had ceased to be a particularly profitable business, this serving of
fine meals for a dollar each; and so the railroads themselves took it up
and prepared to make it a cost business for the advertising value to them.
Each railroad plumed itself upon its dining-car service--some of them
still do--and each was willing to lose a little money, perhaps, to induce
travel to come its way because of the superior meals it served upon its
trains. But as the price of food-stuffs continued steadily to rise, the
advertising feature of these meals began to be more and more expensive,
and the dollar dinner quickly disappeared. A high priced _à-la-carte_
service took its place, and the railroads sought to establish their
commissary upon a money-making basis.
The attempt has not been very successful. For the lifting of the
dining-car prices and the attempt to reduce running expenses has, on
some roads in particular, hurt the reputation of these "restaurants on
wheels," and so in due season hurt their patronage; brought their patrons
from folk who went out of their way to eat on dining-cars to folk who eat
there only because of dire necessity. And these last still have found
prices high and the result is to be eventually a return to former methods
in part--slower trains stopping again for meals at important stations, the
faster trains returning to the _table d'hôte_. Beginnings have been made
along that line recently. The dollar dinner may never return to some
roads--although it remains a joy and a delight to travellers upon the New
Haven system--but the "regular dinner" at least, capable of quick service
in a crowded car, bids fair to have a renaissance.
While the problem of dining-car economy, and profit even, remains a
problem, the idea is nevertheless being steadily extended all the while to
branches and to trains that could not support full-sized dining-cars. To
meet these needs smaller cars--generally called _café_-cars--in which the
dining-compartment is much reduced in size, have been built and operated.
In these two cooks, two waiters and a steward form the working force and
the fixed charges of the outfit are correspondingly reduced. They are
further reduced in the operation of the so-called broiler-coach, which is
nothing more or less than a day-car with a kitchen built in, the entire
service being performed by one or two cooks and a like number of waiters.
Some sleeping-cars and some parlor cars still have kitchens where a single
accomplished negro may act as both cook and waiter, and these cars are
designated commonly as buffet sleepers or buffet parlor cars.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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