Another Arab writer says that Cordova "is a fortified town, surrounded
by massive and lofty stone walls, and has very fine streets. It was in
times of old the residence of many infidel kings, whose palaces are
still visible within the precincts of the walls. The inhabitants are
famous for their courteous and polished manners, their superior
intelligence, their exquisite taste and magnificence in their meals,
dress, and horses. There thou wouldst see doctors shining with all sorts
of learning, lords distinguished by their virtues and generosity,
warriors renowned for their expeditions into the country of the
infidels, and officers experienced in all kinds of warfare. To Cordova
came from all parts of the world students eager to cultivate poetry, to
study the sciences, or to be instructed in divinity or law; so that it
became the meeting-place of the eminent in all matters, the abode of the
learned, and the place of resort for the studious; its interior was
always filled with the eminent and the noble of all countries, its
literary men and soldiers were continually vying with each other to gain
renown, and its precincts never ceased to be the arena of the
distinguished, the racecourse of readers, the halting-place of the
noble, and the repository of the true and virtuous. Cordova was to
Andalus what the head is to the body, or what the breast is to the
lion."[23]
Oriental praise is apt to be somewhat high flown; but Cordova really
deserved the praise that has been lavished upon it. In its present state
it is impossible to form any conception of the extent and beauty of the
old Moorish capital in the days of the Great Khalif. Its narrow streets
of whitewashed houses convey but a faint impression of its once
magnificent extent; the palace, Alcazar, is in decay, and its ruins are
used for the vile purpose of a prison; the bridge still spans the
Guadalquivir, however, and the noble mosque of the first Omeyyad is
still the wonder and delight of travellers. But in the time of
Abd-er-Rahmān III., or perhaps a little later, when a great minister
added a new faubourg, it was at its best. Historians are divided as to
its extent, but a length of at least ten miles seems to be the most
probable dimension. The banks of the Guadalquivir were bright with
marble houses, mosques, and gardens, in which the rarest flowers and
trees of other countries were carefully cultivated, and the Arabs
introduced their system of irrigation, which the Spaniards, both before
and since, have never equalled. The first Omeyyad Sultan imported a date
tree from Syria, to remind him of his old home; and to it he dedicated a
sad little poem to bewail his exile. It was planted in the garden which
he had laid out in imitation of that of his grandfather Hishām at
Damascus, where he had played as a child. He sent agents all over the
world to bring him the rarest exotics, trees, plants, and seeds; and so
skilful were the Sultan's gardeners that these foreign importations were
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