The Mother of Washington and Her TimesPryor, Sara Agnes Rice
History
The Mother of Washington and Her Times
Pryor, Sara Agnes Rice
Virginia -- Social life and customs; Washington, Mary Ball, 1708-1789
DINNERS, DRESS, DANCES, HORSE-RACES
If the grave New Jersey Presbyterian tutor--who has given us so
faithful a picture of domestic life in the Northern Neck--saw fit to
burn his candles at night while he described the dresses, dinners,
and dances of his day, surely it is worth our while to pause in our
history to consider them.
The planter's daily life began betimes with an early breakfast. The
planter was an early riser. He had retired early. The myrtle-berry
candle--the costly spermaceti--were not brilliant enough to tempt
late hours. Often before daybreak in the winter, when the nights
were long, he might be found at his secretary arranging the work of
the day. Washington at Mount Vernon would light his own fire and
read by candle-light, then breakfast on tea and Indian-meal cakes at
eight o'clock. But to all rules he and his mother were exceptions!
The usual life of the planter admitted more luxury. His breakfast
was a good one! But first, having risen early, he mixed with his own
hands the great beaker of crushed ice, peach-brandy, and mint to be
sent around to all the rooms as an appetizer. Even the children
were admitted to this morning loving-cup. Virginians believed in it!
Luckily the breakfast is not left to a twentieth-century
imagination--which would probably suggest an orange, coffee, and
roll. The Rev. Andrew Burnaby, Vicar of Greenwich, London, had the
pleasure of eating a Virginia breakfast in 1759: "The ancient custom
of eating meat for breakfast still continues. At the top of the
table where the lady of the house presides, there is constantly tea
and coffee, but the rest of the table is garnished out with roasted
fowls, ham, venison, game and other dainties. There is scarcely a
Virginia lady who breakfasts without ham!"
Dinner at home or abroad was served not later than three, and
was preceded by at least one mint julep all around. At one home
dinner we read of four kinds of fish, "Sheeps-head, Bass, Perch,
Picked Crab: Ham, Mutton, vegetables, pudding, fruits, cheese, old
Madeira," which to be presentable must have crossed the ocean more
than once. A dinner included three courses,--soup, then the whole
dinner placed on the table at once, then dessert. Ducks were served
at the fish feasts. The delicious canvasback duck was by no means
so highly appreciated as it is now. They were left in comparative
peace to feed upon the tender wild celery of the Potomac marshes.
The diamond-backed terrapin was much too abundant to be considered
a dainty. To save the scarcer and costlier pork, terrapin was fed to
the negroes. Laws were enacted in Maryland forbidding the slaves'
rations to be exclusively of terrapin!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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