The Motor Routes of France: To the Châteaux of Touraine, Biarritz, the Pyrenees, the Riviera, & the Rhone ValleyHome, Gordon
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The Motor Routes of France: To the Châteaux of Touraine, Biarritz, the Pyrenees, the Riviera, & the Rhone Valley
Home, Gordon
Automobile travel -- France -- Guidebooks; France -- Description and travel
is a curious town with two imposing eighteenth-century gateways, one of
them by the bridge which is crossed on the way southwards to St. Girons.
Arthur Young marvelled at their magnificence when he saw them in 1787.
He thought they could only have been built to please the eye of
travellers! The gendarmerie is built of the stone brought from the
ruined Abbey of Bonnefont, and the Romanesque doorway of the church
(sixteenth century) comes from the same monastery, a little south of the
town.
A Renaissance château stands on the right bank of the river.
After crossing the hills south of St. Martory, the road drops down to
the village of Mane, on the Salat, and all the way to St. Girons one
follows that river _without crossing it_. At a point about 6 kilometres
from Mane, where there is a bridge to Lacave, one is tempted to cross
the river, as the road appears to be entering a stone quarry, but one
must not be deterred by this.
ST. LIZIER
is piled up romantically on a steep and almost isolated mass of rock
rising from the rushing Salat. It is now a small decayed place without
an hotel, but its very steep and picturesque streets lead up to Roman
remains of a most interesting character.
Under the name of _Lugdunum Consoranorum_, St. Lizier was one of the
nine cities of Novempopulania; it was the capital of Conserans, the seat
of a bishopric founded in 450 by St. Vallier, and it remained an
episcopal possession until the Revolution. One crosses the medieval
bridge of three or four unequal arches, noticing a piece of Roman marble
inscribed to the goddess Belisama let into one of the piers, and then,
ascending a precipitous street, turns to the right towards the church at
the corner, illustrated here.
The interesting Romanesque church dates from the twelfth or the
following century, and is built of red brick, with a central tower, now
well restored. Roman remains are built into the apse, and there is also
a Roman doorway. The sacristan keeps the key of the beautiful cloisters,
every capital of which is different and worth study. A tomb dated 1303
[Illustration: THE CLOISTERS OF THE ROMANESQUE CHURCH AT ST. LIZIER.]
is that of Bishop Chatillon, and in the sacristy are portraits of other
bishops, whose imposing residence still crowns the highest portion of
the town: but this former home of episcopal dignity is now a lunatic
asylum. Permission to enter is, however, easily obtained, a _gardien_
conducting the visitor to the small fourteenth-century cathedral and the
twelfth-century chapter-house. The bases of the walls of the bishops’
palace are undoubtedly Roman. There were six semicircular and six square
towers, and even the twelfth-century episcopal keep stands on a Roman
base, just inside the ramparts. Many picturesque corners and some quaint
timber-framed houses invite one to linger at St. Lizier, and the time
spent there would not be wasted.
ST. GIRONS,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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