The Motor Routes of France: To the Châteaux of Touraine, Biarritz, the Pyrenees, the Riviera, & the Rhone ValleyHome, Gordon
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The Motor Routes of France: To the Châteaux of Touraine, Biarritz, the Pyrenees, the Riviera, & the Rhone Valley
Home, Gordon
Automobile travel -- France -- Guidebooks; France -- Description and travel
6. The Cathedral of St. Trophime is opposite the museum. The
Romanesque façade, dating from 1221, is a beautiful piece of
architecture, enriched with statues and a bold arch supported by
columns. The cloisters are intensely interesting, having been built
in different periods--north and east sides Romanesque of the
twelfth and thirteenth centuries, west about 1380, and south about
1505.
7. The Avenue des Alyscamps is the Roman cemetery of the city, just
without the ramparts, put up during the reign of the Emperor
Constantine. On either side of the avenue there are altogether 153
stone sarcophagi, the 33 large ones having retained their lids. The
Alyscamps, when consecrated as a Christian burial-place, became so
famous that bodies were brought great distances in order that they
might enjoy the privileges supposed to be the lot of those who were
buried there.
8. Church of St. Antoine, an interesting Gothic building.
9. Church of St. Honorat, partially eleventh century.
THE ROAD TO AIX-EN-PROVENCE
leaves Arles from the Avenue Victor Hugo, and after winding a little for
about twelve kilometres, with trees interfering with the view, goes due
east in a straight line across the open plain called La Crau
(pronounced ‘Crow’). It is a strange level waste of round stones, very
uniform in size, which the torrents of innumerable ages have brought
down from the Alps. The early peoples of Provence were mightily
impressed with these monstrous pebbles, and Strabo has preserved the
legend that Zeus rained them down on the earth to scatter the Ligurian
tribesmen who often attacked the adventurous Phœnician traders and
colonizers. The heat of the sun on the mass of stones, which has a depth
averaging from 30 to 45 feet, produces the phenomenon of the mirage, and
the conditions of wind and temperature are always inclined to be
different to less exposed places. A clear sunrise over the mountains
north-east of the Crau is a memorable sight. The desert of stones,
broken here and there with lines of cypresses, is full of a strange
shadowiness under the crimson-streaked sky as the eastern light grows in
intensity, and one half expects to see a caravan of camels and the
burnous of Arabia in place of the country cart of the French peasant.
The curiously isolated ridge called Les Alpines is prominent to the
north wherever one goes between Nîmes and Salon.
Salon is a cheerful town at the very edge of the Crau. The main street
has a bright and almost Parisian touch, with its numerous cafés having
their tables under the shade of old plane-trees. There is a
fourteenth-century château, and in the Church of St. Laurent, a Gothic
building of the same period, is the tomb of Michel de Notre Dame,
Catherine de Medici’s favourite astrologer. Another church is dedicated
to St. Michael, and is a century earlier.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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