The first most imposing survival is the Amphitheatre. It stands outside the town, and a by-road passes through its longest axis. There is no fencing, nor, indeed, any restriction to the public from climbing the broken tiers of seats; nor has there been any attempt at restoration to the broken arches or the grass-grown arena. On the eastern side of the little town, where the harbour was situated, is a small tower with a conical top, called La Lanterne. This was the Roman harbour-master’s office, and not a lighthouse. The remains of the aqueduct are imposing detached masses of ivy-mantled stonework, ranging like great sentinels across cornfields and meadows to the hills to the north, from whence a pure supply of water was obtained. There are also remains of the walls of the Roman town; of three of the gateways, including the Porta Romana, which is the best; of the two citadels; the baths; and the theatre. Modern Fréjus has some picturesque doorways and old houses spoilt with stucco. The Romanesque Cathedral has beautiful cloisters, much in need of restoration, and a baptistery with eight monolithic granite pillars from a Roman temple. ST. RAPHAËL stands on the opposite side of the alluvial plain, and being on the sea, has lately blossomed into a Riviera resort, with modern hotels, a huge domed church, and new streets of shops and stuccoed houses. It is a dusty and windy place compared to Valescure, a little way inland, on high ground, among the pines of the Estérel slopes. Napoleon embarked from St. Raphaël for Elba after his abdication in 1814. The British warship _Undaunted_ received the ex-Emperor on board on April 28. He had come through many hostile crowds on his journey from Fontainebleau, and so great was the danger to his life that he consented to disguise himself in the uniform of an Austrian officer. THE CORNICHE D’OR is a most beautiful road, recently built by the Touring Club de France, along the high rocky coast of the Estérels. Its dangers for motorists have been described at the beginning of this section, but in case that warning may have been overlooked, the need of driving slowly and cautiously is again emphasized. After the somewhat arid scenery of the delta of the Rhone and of the country about Aix and Brignoles, the first few miles of the Riviera are an exquisite pleasure to the eye. The road at first winds between gardens, whose trees cast long patches of shade, and the air is deliciously scented with lemons and other plants; then one comes out by the breaking waves, and looks across little bays, ‘the peacock’s neck in hue.’ Dark masses of firs clothe the red of the porphyry cliffs, and each turn of the road brings some fresh combination of rock and wave and tree-clothed valley.