The Motor Routes of France: To the Châteaux of Touraine, Biarritz, the Pyrenees, the Riviera, & the Rhone ValleyHome, Gordon
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The Motor Routes of France: To the Châteaux of Touraine, Biarritz, the Pyrenees, the Riviera, & the Rhone Valley
Home, Gordon
Automobile travel -- France -- Guidebooks; France -- Description and travel
St. Honorat, the smaller island, is the Lindisfarne of the South of
France, for there, during the European upheavals in the fifth century,
St. Honorat founded a monastery and kept alive the sacred spark of a
pure and restrained life beyond the reach of the barbarous waves of
invasion that were sweeping over south-western Europe. In the eighth
century Saracens wiped out the monastery and massacred the monks, but
their crude weapons could not destroy the influence which had gone forth
from the islet in the four centuries of its previous existence. In the
ninth century the monastery was refounded, and two hundred years later
the fortified building existing to-day was put up to secure the monks
from attack.
NICE
[Illustration: TOWN PLAN NO. 25.--NICE.]
may be described as ‘Paris by the Sea.’ Its wide streets are entirely
reminiscent of the metropolis, and the whole life of the great resort is
French, in marked contrast to the English feeling of Cannes. The
enormous hotels, the plane-bordered streets, the kiosks, the trams, and
the people, are all so essentially Parisian that, out of sight of the
sea or the mountains, one easily forgets that one is by the
[Illustration: CAP MARTIN.
The wooded promontory separating Mentone from Monte Carlo.]
shores of the Mediterranean. Like Cannes, there is a conspicuous
isolated mass of rock on the otherwise flat shore, which was the nucleus
of the Greek town of _Nicæa_. The remains of the Greek buildings were
found at the foot of the rock, which was, no doubt, a fortified place of
refuge. The Romans preferred a site farther inland, and at the modern
Cimiez, on the rising ground north of the present city, they built
_Cemenelium_, of which shapeless masses of the amphitheatre remain,
although a road passes right through them. The site of the Roman baths
has also been found, and great quantities of small objects have been
discovered. The rock down on the shore became important again after the
Lombards had sacked Cimiez, and on it was built a castle, from which the
counts ruled under the Frankish kings. It was besieged by the Turks in
1543, when François I. had made his infamous alliance with Kheyr-ed-Dīn,
the Corsair admiral, but the bravery of a woman saved the place from
being taken by assault.
When Smollett visited Nice the condition of the town must have been
exceedingly primitive. He says:
‘The streets are narrow, the houses are built of stone, and the
windows in general are fitted with paper instead of glass. This
expedient would not answer in a country subject to rain and storms;
but here, where there is very little of either, the paper lozenges
answer tolerably well. The bourgeois, however, begin to have their
houses sashed with glass.’
Of the mosquitoes he writes:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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