The Motor Routes of France: To the Châteaux of Touraine, Biarritz, the Pyrenees, the Riviera, & the Rhone ValleyHome, Gordon
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The Motor Routes of France: To the Châteaux of Touraine, Biarritz, the Pyrenees, the Riviera, & the Rhone Valley
Home, Gordon
Automobile travel -- France -- Guidebooks; France -- Description and travel
The Ducal Palace, now the Palais de Justice, was built in 1475 by Jean
de Clamecy, Comte de Nevers, and its Renaissance character was given
during the next century, when the Clèves family, and afterwards the
Gonzogas of Mantua, held Nevers. In front of the palace there are
pleasant gardens, with a view southwards towards Moulins, and to the
right (when one faces this prospect) is the Cathedral of St. Cyr. It has
a square tower of the Flamboyant period, rather severe in outline, but
encrusted with beautiful panelling and statuary, and the south porch
belongs to the same period. The curious, almost bizarre, feature of the
interior is the apsidal termination at both the east and west ends. At
the east end there is a beautiful vaulted ambulatory of the fourteenth
century, erected outside the eastern apse of the Romanesque cathedral,
built in 1028 and restored and altered in 1194. The early wall-paintings
were fortunately preserved by the Gothic architect.
At the west end, the Romanesque crypt remains beneath an apse rebuilt in
the sixteenth century. The Saint Sépulcre in the crypt is a hideous
group of painted figures bending over a representation of Christ. The
beautiful nave, rebuilt in 1188, is enriched with caryatides and
sculptured figures.
Before leaving Nevers the very fine Church of the Cluniac Priory of St.
Étienne, begun in 1063 by William I., Count of Nevers, and finished in
1097, should be seen. It is a remarkably fine example of the
Burgundian-Romanesque style. The cloisters belong to the thirteenth
century.
Bernadette Soubirous, the unfortunate heroine of the Lourdes apparition
of the Virgin, spent her last years, and died at the early age of
thirty-five, in the nunnery of St. Gildard at Nevers. Throughout most of
her life, and especially towards the end, her physical infirmities were
a great burden to the poor girl. Her grave is in the convent garden, and
one marvels that the Roman Catholic authorities did not order a
sumptuous tomb in the pilgrimage church at Lourdes! (See p. 235.)
The road goes northwards through Pougues-les-Eaux, and runs close to
the Loire from the hamlet of La Marche for a considerable distance. The
river is broken up with sandy islands covered with low green bushes and
thin wire-grass.
La Charité is a very picturesque and cheerful little town with several
good old houses, and an old stone bridge across the river. The extremely
interesting and beautiful Romanesque church belonged to one of the most
important Cluniac priories in France, so famed for its good deeds that
the place received the name it now bears. A town sprang up round the
abbey, and ramparts defended with several towers were built in 1184, but
the fortifications standing to-day were rebuilt in 1364. It is
surprising that there are any of the defences left when one reads of the
frequent sieges and sackings the town endured, particularly during the
religious wars of the sixteenth century.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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