The Motor Routes of France: To the Châteaux of Touraine, Biarritz, the Pyrenees, the Riviera, & the Rhone ValleyHome, Gordon
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The Motor Routes of France: To the Châteaux of Touraine, Biarritz, the Pyrenees, the Riviera, & the Rhone Valley
Home, Gordon
Automobile travel -- France -- Guidebooks; France -- Description and travel
In 1527 Marguerite de Valois, the charming young sister of François I.,
was married to Henri d’Albret of Béarn. She not only obtained architects
from Italy to remodel the castle on the Renaissance style, and made what
was then considered the most beautiful garden in Europe, but attracted
to her Court the leading artists, poets, and savants, as well as the
best of the nobility of her time. Further than this, Marguerite
encouraged the Reformation movement so warmly that Calvin and Clément
Marot, whose psalms were sung by the Huguenots, found a refuge with her
at Pau. Marguerite’s daughter was the famous Jeanne d’Albret, who
became the mother of Henry of Navarre, the great Protestant champion who
eventually became Henri IV. of France. Jeanne’s husband, Antoine de
Bourbon, died in 1562, leaving her the ruler of Béarn and Navarre; and
being free to act as she chose, Jeanne made a public declaration of her
belief in Protestantism, and then made the mistake of endeavouring to
force her people to take the same step. It therefore became necessary
for Charles IX. to send an army against Béarn; but Jeanne d’Albret,
assisted by the Prince of Condé and the English, raised a strong force,
commanded by Montgomery, and defeated the Catholics. These victories, as
already mentioned in connection with Orthez, were marred by the savage
treatment of the Catholics, including a massacre at a feast held on
August 24, 1569, of ten lords whose lives Montgomery had promised to
spare. The apartment of the château in which this bloody deed was
carried out is hung with tapestry, and is called the _Grand Salon de
Réception de Henri II. (of Navarre)_.
Under Louis XIII. Navarre and Béarn were made into a province, and Pau,
no longer possessing a royal Court, soon dropped into an obscurity in
which it remained until English visitors began, in 1850, to draw
attention to the attractions of the climate and scenery.
The Château (_open every day between 10 and 5 from April 1 to September
30, and between 11 and 4 from October 1 to the end of March_). The
fourteenth-century keep of red brick, built by Gaston Phœbus, as already
mentioned, stands to the left on entering the courtyard through the open
arches of the east side. On the left--that is, overlooking the river--is
the beautiful façade restored by Henri d’Albret (Henri II. of Navarre).
It contains the _grand salon_ where the massacre mentioned above took
place, and also the _Chambre de Henri IV._, where the Protestant king
was born on December 13, 1553. His cradle, in the shape of a large
tortoiseshell, is still preserved in the room.
An interesting story concerning the birth of the child is told by Miss
Sichel in her work on Catherine de Medici.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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