(5.) Unless a footpath is raised above the roadway it is liable to be flooded. Many materials are used for kerb, of which granite being the best is generally used in streets where there is much traffic, as the kerb is often subjected to severe blows from the passing vehicular traffic as well as a grinding action from the wheels of waggons and other heavy vehicles, especially on gradients where “hugging” the kerb acts as a drag or break. In such cases granite, although the most expensive in the first case, is certainly the most economical, and no other material should ever be used. Granite kerb varies in dimensions considerably in different localities and according to the width of the footpaths, the wider the path the wider should be the kerb. It should however never be of less depth than 9 inches, nor narrower than 4 inches; depth is necessary to prevent the kerb turning over towards the channel gutter, or water table as it is sometimes termed, and the filling in on the gutter side must also be well rammed with a bar to prevent this. Kerb should never be in less lengths than 3 feet, and when 8 inches and broader it is better that the top surface should be bevelled off to conform with the slope of the footpath, but in narrower kerbing such a practice is unnecessary, and if carried to an extreme may even be dangerous. The kerb should be drafted about 1 inch along both top edges and hammer dressed about 5 inches on the face, in addition to the whole surface of the top and for 3 inches at the back, in order that there may be a smooth surface visible against the channel gutter, and also for the flagging or other paving to butt fair against, besides giving a clean appearance to the aris of kerb both inside and out. The following section of an 8-inch granite kerb will explain this: [Illustration] The top surface should always be tooled or axed whenever it has worn smooth and slippery, as a slip from a kerbstone often causes a very bad fall to a pedestrian. Setting kerb requires a very experienced hand, for as it is set dry great care must be shown, or it will sink, turn slightly over, or move even months after it has been set. In addition to this it is heavy stuff to handle, but unless the line is accurate both as regards level and contour, the appearance will be exceedingly bad. Of course the skillet line and boning rods are freely used in setting kerb, but even with these helps one mason will set kerb in a pleasing manner, whilst another, with even more care, does not seem able to make it appear graceful. Deep and narrow kerb should be bedded on good clean river gravel, and beaten into its place with hard blows from a heavy wooden setting maul or beetle weighing not less than 50 lbs. Broader and shallower kerb should be bedded on concrete.