The Mute Stones Speak: The Story of Archaeology in ItalyMacKendrick, Paul Lachlan
History
The Mute Stones Speak: The Story of Archaeology in Italy
MacKendrick, Paul Lachlan
Italy -- Antiquities
But before his death Hadrian dedicated one more section of the villa
to mourning his loss. This is the Canopus (Figs. 11.1 and 11.15),
named for the suburb of Alexandria where Antinous met his untimely and
unhappy end. The original plan may have antedated Antinous’ death--the
latest stamps reported by Bloch are dated A.D. 126--but after the
disaster Hadrian, deliberately turning the knife in the wound, must
have made this complex a memorial of the place where it happened.
For the approach is along a pool (excavated and restored 1954–1957)
intended to be reminiscent of the canal which gave access to the
Canopus at Alexandria. The latest finds make it possible to restore the
pool with its south end fitted with dining couches. The north end is
apsidal, edged with a curious colonnade whose architrave is flat over
one pair of columns and arched over the next pair. Along the sides were
found perfect (and entirely unimaginative) copies of the Caryatids,
the maidens who upheld the south porch of the Erechtheum; these would
be memories of past happiness in Athens. Flanking the maidens were
Sileni. Other marbles, adorning the apsidal north end of the colonnade,
included, in order, an Amazon, a Hermes, a river god representing the
Tiber, another representing the Nile, an Ares, and another Amazon. All
this uninspired archaism is depressing; in the ageing, heartbroken
Hadrian taste and inspiration alike are dead.
The colonnade led to the terminal half-dome (another “pumpkin,” it
will be recalled) and secondary structures, the whole long known as
the Serapeum (there was such a temple in the Alexandrian Canopus). It
is complex in plan, at once _nymphaeum_ and temple, with its hemicycle
deepened at the back into a long narrow apsidal gallery in which some
commentators have seen a deep sexual significance. Here Hadrian has
turned, to catalyze his flagging inspiration, to older civilizations,
dead or dying like himself. Once again, for the last time, and feebly,
he has made of what they have to offer something uniquely his own. In
the Canopus, as in the Teatro Marittimo and the Piazza d’Oro, there is
no single satisfactory viewpoint: the result is an effect of motion, in
curved space, in varied light and shade, involved with water, the whole
a polyphonic counterpart to Hadrian’s own restlessness.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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