The Mute Stones Speak: The Story of Archaeology in ItalyMacKendrick, Paul Lachlan
History
The Mute Stones Speak: The Story of Archaeology in Italy
MacKendrick, Paul Lachlan
Italy -- Antiquities
That security brought in its train prosperity, and even luxury, of
which the symbol is the grandiose Roman public baths. Though Agrippa,
Nero, Titus, and Trajan all built baths whose sites and plans are
known, the most grandiose, and the clearest in plan, are the Baths of
Caracalla, begun in A.D. 211. The Baths of Diocletian, built a century
later, are equally vast, but their plan has been obscured by the
incorporation into their fabric of the church of S. Maria degli Angeli
and the Terme Museum. The Baths of Caracalla, known to thousands of
visitors as the summer setting for Rome’s outdoor opera, were built on
a vast platform, twenty feet high, with an area of 270,000 square feet,
greater than that of London’s Houses of Parliament. Excavations in
1938, when the Baths were being prepared for their metamorphosis into
an outdoor opera house, revealed in the substructure vaulted service
corridors, wide enough for vehicles, widening out at intersections
into regular underground public squares, with provisions for rotary
traffic. Access to the lower reaches was by stairs let into the central
piers of the main building. The principal entrance to the baths was
to the north (over the edge of the platform at the top center of the
air-photograph, Fig. 12.4). It was flanked by numerous small rooms
which in the difficult post-war years housed teeming families of
Italy’s homeless. (Their unique opportunity of a summer evening to
admire the sleek prosperity of the operagoers recreated the gulf that
yawned between haves and have nots in Imperial Rome, and contributed
not a little to Italy’s unrest.)
The main bath building was set in the northern half of the great open
space provided by the platform, and was surrounded with gardens. Facing
these on the perimeter was a variety of halls, for lectures, reading,
and exercise. Those on the east and west were contained in curved
projections (exedras). A part of the western exedra appears in the
lower left corner of the air-photograph. Beneath it in a subterranean
vault was discovered in 1911 what was at that time the largest
Mithraeum (shrine of the Persian god Mithras) in Rome.[E] To the south
(lower right on the photograph) was a stadium whose seats were built
against the reservoir which supplied the baths: this was fed by a
branch from one of the great aqueducts, the Aqua Marcia.
[E] In 1958 Dutch archaeologists excavated a larger one under
the church of S. Prisca on the Aventine Hill.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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