The mystery of Easter island: the story of an expeditionRoutledge, Katherine
History
The mystery of Easter island: the story of an expedition
Routledge, Katherine
Easter Island; Oceania -- Description and travel; Voyages and travels
It was altogether, as will be seen, a considerable work, and we were
hard at it for a fortnight, during which time, with the exception of two
shopping expeditions to the neighbouring city of Concepcion, we had
little opportunity to see the surrounding country. It felt at any rate
dry and warm, in fact well aired, after the damp of the Patagonian
Channels, and might have been even adjudged too dry and dusty. The most
refreshing sight was a little garden which adjoined the custom-house
steps, at which we landed almost daily, and which, in spite of
difficulties, was invariably bright with geraniums and other flowers:
Chile is much more a country of gardens, in the English sense, than any
other land it has been my lot to visit. Talcahuano has about 13,000
inhabitants, and consists of little beside the dockyard, in which the
chief posts are filled by Englishmen. Three English officers are also
lent in peace time by our own navy to that of Chile; one of these, with
whom we happened to have mutual acquaintances, was kind enough to
entertain us on board the Chilean warship, whose name, being translated,
was _Commodore Pratt_.
A point anxiously debated at the moment, and not without some practical
interest for us, was whether Chile could afford to keep the Dreadnoughts
which were being built for her by Messrs. Armstrong. There was a
financial crisis at the time, and the exchange was much against Chile;
hence firms there which owed money to England were delaying meeting
their liabilities, with the result that more than one English company
had failed in consequence. The sale of a Dreadnought would of course
greatly affect the rate; even without that before we left the country it
had materially risen, and the value received for a sovereign was, from
our point of view, regrettably diminished.
An Englishman feels distinctly more at home in Chile than in either
Brazil or Argentina. Some of the best-known firms are genuinely English,
though the possession of an English name is in itself no guarantee of
more than a remote British origin: a Mr. Brown may, for instance, marry
a Miss Thompson, and neither be able to speak the English tongue.[9] Our
language is the only one taught free in the schools; it is presumably
the most useful from the point of view of trade with ourselves and the
United States. One of our countrymen resident in the Republic explained
to us that “the Chileans hate all foreigners, but they hate the British
rather less than the others.” Those at least were our recorded
impressions at this time; on the subsequent visit of the yacht, after
war broke out, the German influence was strong enough to affect her
position adversely in the way of work and stores.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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