The mystery of Easter island: the story of an expeditionRoutledge, Katherine
History
The mystery of Easter island: the story of an expedition
Routledge, Katherine
Easter Island; Oceania -- Description and travel; Voyages and travels
The objects of antiquarian interest proved to be widely scattered. The
statues have originally stood on a particular kind of burial-place,
generally known as a “terrace” or “platform.” These terraces surround
the whole coast, and each one had of course to be studied. For those at
the western end, and for certain stone remains on the volcano of Rano
Kao, Mataveri was a most convenient centre; but the distance from there
to the places of interest at the other end of the island was unduly
great. We therefore decided to avail ourselves of the offer of the
Manager and remain for a while at his establishment, where _Mana_ left
us, and later move camp. Survey and photography had of course to keep
pace with research, and a general look-out to be kept for any caves
which it might pay to explore. There was also the question of getting
into touch with the natives and finding if any lore existed which threw
light on the antiquities: this last, from what we had been told in
England, was not a very hopeful quest; anyway, it seemed wiser to defer
it for the moment till we knew something of the language and were more
at home in our surroundings.
The Manager’s house has six rooms, three of which are at the front, and
three, having a separate entrance, at the back. These last, with a most
useful attic, Mr. Edmunds kindly put at our disposal, and we
supplemented the accommodation with tents pitched in the grounds. My own
tent, for the sake of quietness, was on the western side of the
plantation, about a hundred yards from the house. S. used to escort me
down at night, with a camp lantern, by a little track through the
eucalyptus trees, see that all was well, put down the light, and leave
me with the mystery of the island. The site was one dedicated to
cannibal feasts; immediately behind was the hillock with the grave of
the murdered manager; while not far away the waves thundered against the
cliffs, making in stormy weather the ground tremble as if with an
earthquake. In the morning came the glory of the waking, of being at
once _tête à tête_ with air, sunshine, and dewy grass: to those who have
not known the wonder of these things, it cannot be explained; to those
who have experienced it, no words are needed.
Tent life is not all “beer and skittles”; Easter is too windy for an
ideal camping-ground; my pitch was sheltered, but even so it seemed at
times as if the structure would be carried away bodily. To preserve a
tent in place taut ropes are needed, but if rain descends these shrink,
and either burst with the strain or tear the pegs out of the ground: the
conscientious dweller under canvas will, under these conditions, arise
from his warm bed, and in the pouring deluge race round the tent,
slacking off the said ropes. Mine, like the stripes of St. Paul,
numbered forty save one. Before the end we were able to make different
arrangements.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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