The mystery of Easter island: the story of an expeditionRoutledge, Katherine
History
The mystery of Easter island: the story of an expedition
Routledge, Katherine
Easter Island; Oceania -- Description and travel; Voyages and travels
Rano Raraku (fig. 45) stands by itself where the flat ground of the
southern coast meets the eastern transverse plain, and forms the
isolated tip of those lesser volcanoes which have been described as the
eastern finger. About a mile to the eastward rises the high ground of
Poike. Raraku scarcely deserves the name of mountain, being little more
than a basin containing a crater lake; yet it curiously dominates the
scene. There will be much to tell of it hereafter; for the moment
suffice it to say that a large number of statues stand on its lower
slopes, while above are the quarries from which, with very few
exceptions, all the figures in the island have been obtained. The side
nearest the sea is a sheer cliff, the extremities of which form the two
peaks which are so characteristic of the mountain. Beneath the cliff is
a flow of lava; here the French carpenter had managed to put up two iron
huts which had been sent ahead from England; one was a store, the other
formed my one-roomed villa residence. Their erection was somewhat of a
triumph, as all the bolts had been stolen on the way. The rest of the
camp, the tent for meals, that of S., and those for the servants, were
pitched for protection about 50 feet lower down, on the further side of
the lava flow; but even here, owing to the tearing wind which howled
round the mountain, their canvas flies had to be tied back and walls
erected around them (fig. 73). On every hand were the remains of native
life prior to the removal of the inhabitants to Hanga Roa, the most
welcome being a single well-grown tree of the sort known in tropical
countries as the “umbrella tree.” It was the only example of its kind on
the island, and was of an age that suggested it had been planted by the
early missionaries.
The whole situation was not only one of striking beauty, but brought
with it an indescribable sense of solemnity. Immediately above the camp
towered the majestic cliff of Raraku, near at hand were its mysterious
quarries and still erect statues; on the coast below us, quiet and
still, lay the overturned images of the great platform of Tongariki, one
fragment of which alone remains on its base, as a silent witness to the
glory which has departed. The scene was most wonderful of all when the
full moon made a track of light over the sea, against which the black
mass of the terrace and the outline of the standing fragment were
sharply defined; while the white beams turned the waving grass into
shimmering silver and lit up every crevice in the mountain above.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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