The mystery of Easter island: the story of an expeditionRoutledge, Katherine
History
The mystery of Easter island: the story of an expedition
Routledge, Katherine
Easter Island; Oceania -- Description and travel; Voyages and travels
Ever since the Expedition was originally projected the passage of the
Straits had been spoken of in somewhat hushed tones; but now, when with
a more favourable wind we began to approach them, instead of going into
Arctic regions, as some of us had anticipated, the weather improved, the
sun went south faster than we did, and the days lengthened rapidly. Our
numerous delays had at least one fortunate result—they secured us a much
better time of year in the Straits than we had expected would fall to
our lot. The feeling in the air was that of an English April, bright and
sunny, but fresh; we kept the saloon cold on principle during the
daytime, living in big coats; in the evening we had on the hot-water
apparatus, so as to go warm to bed. It was quite possible to write on
deck, and the sea was almost too beautifully calm. We had a great many
ocean callers, who seemed attracted by the vessel: porpoises tumbled
about the bows till we could nearly stroke them, a whale would go round
and round the yacht, coming up to blow at intervals, while seals reared
their heads and shoulders out of the waters and looked at us in a way
that was positively bewitching; once a whale and seal paid us a visit at
the same time. One night S., who was keeping a watch for one of the
officers who was indisposed, was interested in watching the gulls still
feeding during the dark hours.
At 10 p.m. on October 15th the light of Cape Virgins was sighted, and we
woke to find ourselves actually in the Straits of Magellan. The Magellan
route, as compared with that by the Horn, is not only a short road from
the Atlantic to the Pacific, cutting off the islands to the south of the
continent, but ensures calm waters, instead of the stupendous seas of
the Antarctic Ocean. For a sailing ship, however, the difficulties are
great; the prevailing wind is from the west, and there is no space for a
large vessel to beat up against it, nor does she gain the advantage that
can be derived from any slight shift of wind; outside the gale may vary
a point or two, but within the channel it always blows straight down as
in a gully. The early mariners could overcome these obstacles through
the strength of their crews; in case of necessity they lowered their
boats and towed the ship, but the vessels of the present no longer carry
sufficient men to make such a proceeding possible. Sailing-ships
therefore take to-day the Cape Horn route, in spite of its well-known
delays, trials, and hardships. When later the German cruiser turned up
at Easter Island with her captured crews, the great regret of the latter
was that they had been taken just too late, after they had gone through
the unpleasantness of the passage round the Horn.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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