The mystery of Easter island: the story of an expeditionRoutledge, Katherine
History
The mystery of Easter island: the story of an expedition
Routledge, Katherine
Easter Island; Oceania -- Description and travel; Voyages and travels
On Monday, December 1st, we started at daylight and made our way with
motor and sail as far as Cape Froward, the most southerly point of the
Straits; but the sea was running too high to proceed. We had to retrace
our steps, and cast anchor again in St. Nicholas Bay. This time S. and I
were determined to explore the river, so, after an early luncheon, in
order to get the benefit of the tide, we made our way up it in the
cutter. It was most pleasant rowing between the banks of the quiet
stream, and so warm and sheltered that we might almost have imagined
ourselves on the Cherwell, if the illusion had not been dispelled by the
strange vegetation which overhung the banks, amongst which were
beautiful flowering azaleas. Every here and there also a bend in the
course of the river gave magnificent views of snow-clad peaks above. A
happy little family of teal, father, mother, and children, disported
themselves in the water. Later in the voyage, as the mountains grew
steeper, we had many waterfalls, but never again a river which was
navigable to any distance. Some of the crew had been left to cut
firewood, and we found on our return that they had achieved a splendid
collection, which Mr. Ritchie and Mr. Corry had kindly been helping to
chop. Burning wood was not popular in the galley, but we were anxious to
save our supplies of coal.
Tuesday, December 2nd, we again left the bay, and this time were more
fortunate. It was misty and sunless, but as we rounded Cape Froward it
stood out grandly, with its foot in grey seas and with driving clouds
above. We had now definitely entered on the western half of the Straits
and were amongst the spurs of the Andes. As the day advanced the wind
freshened, the clouds were swept away, and blue sky appeared, while the
sea suddenly became dark blue and covered with a mass of foaming,
tumbling waves; on each coast the white-capped mountains came out clear
and strong. This part of the channel, which is known as Froward Reach,
is a path of water, about five miles wide, lying between rocky walls;
and up this track _Mana_ beat to windward, rushing along as if she
thoroughly enjoyed it. Every few minutes came the call “Ready about, lee
oh!” and over she went on a fresh tack, travelling perfectly steadily,
but listed over until the water bubbled beneath the bulwarks on the lee
side. It would have been a poor heart indeed that did not rejoice, and
every soul on board responded to the excitement and thrill of the
motion: that experience alone was worth many hundred miles of travel. As
evening came the wind sank, and we were glad of the prosaic motor to see
us into our haven at Fortescue Bay.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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