The mystery of Easter island: the story of an expeditionRoutledge, Katherine
History
The mystery of Easter island: the story of an expedition
Routledge, Katherine
Easter Island; Oceania -- Description and travel; Voyages and travels
We grew well acquainted with Churruca, as we were detained there for
five days; Saturday through the overhauling of the engine; Sunday,
Monday, and Tuesday by bad weather; of Wednesday more anon. The position
was not without a certain eeriness: we lay in this remote niche in the
mountains, while the storm raged in the channel without and in the peaks
above; at night, after turning in, the gale could be heard tearing down
from above in each direction in turn, and the vessel’s chain rattling
over the stony bottom as she swung round to meet it. The heavy rain
turned every cliff-face into a multitude of waterfalls, which vanished
at times into the air as a gust of wind caught the jet of water and
converted it into a cloud of spray. Although the weather prevented our
venturing outside, it was quite possible to explore the port by means of
the ship’s boats. It proved not unlike Angosto, but on a larger and more
complicated scale. Beyond our inner anchorage, although invisible from
it, was a further extension known as the Lobo Arm, and there were also
other small creeks and inlets.
Even the prosaic Sailing Directions venture on the statement that the
scenery at Port Churruca is “scarcely surpassed,” and one of the fiords
must be described, although the attempt seems almost profane. In its
narrow portion it was about a mile in length and from 100 to 200 yards
in width; the sheer cliffs on either hand were clothed to the height of
many hundreds of feet with various forms of fern and most brilliant
moss. Above this belt of colour was bleak crag, and higher again the
snow-line. The gorge ended in a precipice, above which was a
mountain-peak; a glacier descending from above had been arrested in its
descent by the precipice and now stood above it, forming part of it, a
sheer wall of ice and snow as if cut off by a giant knife. There was
little life to be seen, but an occasional gleam was caught from the
white breast of a sea-bird against the dark setting of the ravine. In
one part, high up on the cliff, where the wind was deflected by a piece
of overhanging rock, was a little colony of nests; the mother birds and
young broods sat on the edge in perfect shelter, even when to venture
off it was to be beaten down on to the surface of the water by the
strength of the wind. Some of our party visited the fiord on a second
occasion to try to obtain photographs; it was blowing at the time a
severe gale, and the effect was magical. The squalls, known as
“williwaws,” rushed down the ravine in such force that the powerful
little launch was brought to a standstill. They lashed the water into
waves, and then turned the foaming crests into spray, till the whole
surface presented the aspect of a fiercely boiling cauldron, through
which glimpses could be caught from time to time of the dark cliffs
above.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account