The unendurable heat and the exhaustion of the horses compelled the
traveller to halt for two or three hours at one of the great hotels that
line the road and, from early in November, bring to that wonderfully
sheltered little village all the luxurious life and animation of an
aristocratic winter resort. But at that time of year the _Marine_ of
Bordighera was deserted, save for a few fishermen, who were invisible at
that hour. The villas and hotels seemed dead, all their blinds and
shades being closely drawn. The new arrival was led through long, cool,
silent passages, to a large salon facing north, evidently a part of one
of the full suites which are generally let for the season, as it was
connected with other rooms on either side by light doors. White
curtains, a carpet, the semi-comfort demanded by the English even when
travelling, and in front of the windows, which the innkeeper threw wide
open as a lure to the visitor, to induce him to make a more extended
halt, the magnificent view of the mountain. An astonishing calm reigned
in that huge, deserted inn, with no steward, no cook, no
attendants,--none of the staff arrived until the first cool days,--and
given over to the care of a native spoil-sauce, an expert in _stoffatos_
and _risottos_, and to two stable-boys, who donned the regulation black
coat, white cravat and pumps at meal hours. Luckily, de Gery proposed to
remain there only an hour or two,--long enough to breathe, to rest his
eyes from the glare of burnished silver and to free his heavy head from
the helmet with the painful chin-strap that the sun had placed upon it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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