The Naples RivieraVaughan, Herbert M. (Herbert Millingchamp)
Philosophy
The Naples Riviera
Vaughan, Herbert M. (Herbert Millingchamp)
Italy -- Description and travel; Naples, Bay of (Italy)
“O quam placens in colore,
O quam fragrans in odore,
O quam sapidum in ore,
Dolce linguae vinculum.
“Felix venter quem intrabis,
Felix guttur quod rigabis,
Felix os quod tu lavabis;
Et beata labia!”
Below the vinery we catch glimpses of the dancing waters of the Bay and of
the little towns of Minori and Majori, seen through a screen of olive and
almond trees that are gently swayed by the south wind. Opposite to us
towers the huge form of the mountain of the Avvocata, upon whose slopes
centuries ago the Madonna herself appeared in a flood of glory to an
ignorant but pious shepherd lad, promising the startled youth to become
his mediator, the _avvocata_ of his simple prayers. The story must be
true, say the peasants, for there on the hillside can still be seen the
ruins of the shrine that the wondering and grateful villagers raised upon
the very site of the apparition in honour of their celestial visitor. But
the whole country-side teems with interesting and often beautiful legends
and traditions, handed down by generations of the simple hardy folk who
toil for their daily bread amidst the vineyards and olive groves that
clothe the sun-baked slopes descending to the shore.
The intervening distance is not great between Ravello and La Scala, which
surmounts the opposite ridge of the valley of the Dragone, whence good
walkers can easily descend by the ancient mule track that leads down
direct to Amalfi by way of Scaletta. Like its neighbour and historic rival
across the valley, the annals and fortunes of Scala are closely interwoven
with those of Amalfi; and it was during the palmy days of the Republic
that this daughter-town reached its height of prosperity. Although the
tradition that once Scala possessed a hundred towers upon its walls and a
hundred and thirty churches is obviously exaggerated, yet it must have
been a place of importance even as early as 987, when Pope John XVI raised
it to the rank of a bishopric, an honour which did not fall to Ravello
until many years later. Early in the twelfth century Scala was pillaged by
the Pisans, but some years afterwards, when the mother city tamely
submitted to the demands of these Tuscan invaders without the smallest
effort at self-defence, the higher-spirited mountaineers of La Scala
manned their walls with skill and vigour, though without avail. The
hill-set city was ultimately carried by storm, and so thoroughly did the
enraged Pisans wreak their vengeance upon the place that Scala never again
rose to fame or eminence, but henceforward dwindled in wealth and size
until it finally sank to the condition of a large village, whilst Clement
VIII offered an additional indignity to the city in its dotage by
depriving it of episcopal rank. But though the citizens of modern Scala no
longer possess a bishop in their midst, they are still the proud
possessors and jealous guardians of the magnificent mitre presented by
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account