The Naples RivieraVaughan, Herbert M. (Herbert Millingchamp)
Philosophy
The Naples Riviera
Vaughan, Herbert M. (Herbert Millingchamp)
Italy -- Description and travel; Naples, Bay of (Italy)
It is a two-mile walk through stony lanes overhung by branches of fig and
orange from Casamicciola to Lacco, a large village well situated on a
little bay which is distinguished by a curious mushroom-shaped rock, aptly
nicknamed “Il Fungo” by the natives. This place, which also suffered
severely in the earthquake of 1883, is the head-quarters of the
straw-plaiting industry of the island, the women and children noisily
beseeching every chance visitor to buy their wares in the guise of
baskets, hats and fans; the pretty coloured tiles (_mattoni_), which are
used with such good effect in the churches and houses of the island, are
likewise manufactured here. Lacco is particularly associated with the
great annual festival of St Restituta on May 17th, which is always marked
by religious processions and by universal merry-making, followed by
illuminations and fireworks at nightfall. This saint, of whom an early
mosaic portrait still exists in her ancient chapel within the Neapolitan
Cathedral, was once the patroness of the city of Naples, but since
medieval times she has been honoured as the special guardian of this
island, whither her body (so the legend runs) was miraculously conveyed
from Egypt in a boat rowed by angels. A local tradition also asserts that
on her landing by the beach of Lacco, an Egyptian lotus bloom was found in
the saint’s hand, as fresh as when it had been plucked months before from
the banks of the Nile.
Leaving the little bay with its sulphur-impregnated sands, and turning
inland, we proceed along a road across an ancient lava-stream over-grown
with pine trees, wild caper and a tangle of aromatic brushwood, to Forio,
which with its white domed houses, its palm trees, and its stately
bare-footed women bearing tall pitchers on their heads gives at first
acquaintance the full impression of an Oriental city. There is little to
be seen in Forio itself, with the exception of some fine vestments of
needlework that are preserved in the sacristy of its principal church, but
no traveller should fail to visit its wonderfully picturesque Franciscan
monastery, a barbaric-looking pile of dazzling white walls and cupolas set
against a background of cobalt waters, which stands outside the town on a
rocky platform jutting into the Mediterranean and is approached by a broad
flight of marble steps adorned with most realistic figures of souls
burning in brightly painted flames of Purgatory. This point too commands a
good view of the extreme north-eastern promontory of the island, a tall
cliff known as the Punta del Imperatore in honour of the great Emperor
Charles the Fifth, beyond which visitors rarely penetrate owing to the
roughness, or rather non-existence of roads, though the southern side of
the island, which lies between this cape and the castle of Ischia, is
fully as beautiful as the northern portion just described.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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