The Naples RivieraVaughan, Herbert M. (Herbert Millingchamp)
Philosophy
The Naples Riviera
Vaughan, Herbert M. (Herbert Millingchamp)
Italy -- Description and travel; Naples, Bay of (Italy)
In one sense Dumas’ facetious description is correct: the New Mountain was
born with extraordinary celerity, and woods, lake and village—familiar and
beloved landmarks to the people of Baiae and Pozzuoli—disappeared at its
birth. But the event was no peaceful act of Nature; on the contrary, it
was accompanied by loud rumblings, by showers of red-hot stones, by clouds
of smoke, by torrents of scalding water, and by the retreating of the sea,
which left thousands of fish lying helpless on the exposed shore. The
village of Tripergola, a summer pleasaunce of the Angevin kings of Naples,
and many traces of ancient Roman villas and engineering works, all
perished in this notable cataclysm. Four eye-witnesses have left us
details of this strange scene of desolation, whilst only a few days after
Mother Earth had brought forth this new mountain, one of them, the Spanish
Viceroy of Naples, the valiant Don Pedro of Toledo, owned sufficient pluck
and curiosity to make the ascent of the Monte Nuovo, still smoking hot and
reeking of sulphur. Who can tell when this _parvenu_ volcano may spout
forth fire and ashes? Would any sane person have the courage ever to
settle within range of a possible eruption? No, the Phlegrean fields are
interesting to visit, but he must require a strong nerve who would fain
dwell beneath the shadow of this dormant crater.
It is a very short walk from the base of the Monte Nuovo to the “golden
shores” of Imperial Baiae, which is certainly not an imposing place in
these days. What with the destroying hand of time and the still more
obliterating action of the neighbouring volcano, there is little left for
the fancy to build upon; certainly the three ruined shells that are called
temples by courtesy, but served probably a much humbler purpose than that
of worship, are not particularly striking. It requires not only a good
classical knowledge, but also no small amount of imagination to picture
the Baiae of the Roman poets.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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