We agreed with a vittureno to leave Naples on Monday, June 11, and took leave of our friends, and made our other arrangements accordingly; but on returning home on the Sunday evening, I found the vittureno had been to state the danger of setting off alone, on account of the number of robbers on the road; and that they should wait to accompany another voiture, which was to set off on the Tuesday; we accordingly reconciled ourselves to the delay, notwithstanding some of our friends, acquainted with the ways of these fellows, expressed their opinion that we should be teased in this manner for at least two or three days, notwithstanding we had a written agreement for our departure, signed by the proprietor; we now, however, to make more certain for the following day, had another drawn up, with a legal stamp to it, and in which it was stipulated, that if he failed to set off on the next morning, he should forfeit half his fare. On Tuesday morning we were in readiness at four o’clock, expecting the coach every moment; at five, however, the vittureno came to state that one of his passengers was taken very ill, and could not proceed, and that he must defer going until the next day, when he hoped the gentleman would be able to set off. This was provoking, and we could not help doubting the truth of the story, but on sending our servant to the gentleman’s lodgings, he returned with a confirmation, and we thought best to acquiesce. We made him sign, however, a yet stronger obligation, by which we were empowered, if he did not set off on the Wednesday, to take post-horses at his expense. We kept very close to-day, not wishing to be laughed at by our friends; in the evening, however, we walked down to the mole, amongst the shipping, where we saw an embarkation of horses for the Austrian army in Sicily; and a Neapolitan seventy-four-gun-ship, the Capri, secured to the wharf, and near to the remains of another seventy-four-gun-ship, the St. Ferdinand, which, a short time before had taken fire, and been burned down to the water’s edge. We felt a strong inclination to avail ourselves of this last evening to visit the magnificent theatre of San Carlos, which had only very lately been opened; but the advantage of retiring early to bed, in order to prepare for our journey on the morrow, induced us to forego the gratification. I had, however, lately been to the Il Fondo, which some prefer to the larger theatre, as its size is better adapted to give effect to the performances. As, however, I could not understand the language, the music alone interested me; but this was indeed exquisite, and fully sufficient to afford the most heart-touching gratification. It was of that kind which