We left Milan on Tuesday, July the 11th, early in the morning of a very fine day, in the largest, and most elegant voiture which I had met with in France or Italy, having only two companions; one, a lady with her lap-dog, who, although she was not very young, was witty and amusing; the other, a singular character of a Frenchman, an ex-colonel of the army of Bonaparte, and who amused us by his eccentricities. He had fought in the battle of Waterloo, and afterwards, been deprived of his pension and half pay, as well as for a time banished the kingdom. He had received a variety of wounds in Egypt, and other parts of the world. My friend informed me that his appearance was shabby, although he talked of having a very rich wife at Lyons. According to his own account, he was at this time carrying on, in a large way, the business of a horse-dealer; and boasted of supplying various princes, and noblemen, with Arabian and other fine horses. Soon after leaving Milan, we passed a voiture, from the outside of which, a trunk had just been stolen. Fifteen miles from Milan, we crossed the Tesseno, which cost us eight centimes per head. This river takes its rise from Mount St. Gothard, and falls into the Po. Soon afterwards, we entered the Piedmontese states, and after the customary examinations, reached Novara for breakfast, having travelled thirty-five miles from Milan. Novara is an ancient city, but of no great note. After breakfast, we proceeded on our journey, and in the afternoon, crossed two small rivers, where they took a toll, not only for our carriage and horses, but ourselves also. About six o’clock, we arrived at Verceil, a very ancient city, with narrow, ill-paved streets, and a scanty population. A number of Austrian troops, who had occupied Piedmont in support of the royalist party, were quartered at this place, and sacrilegiously using the cathedral as stables. We understood that all the principal towns, with the exception of Turin itself, probably in consequence of a particular request, or as a point of delicacy, were at this time under the charge of the Austrians. On the following morning, we breakfasted at St. Germano, and passed several rivers, with good modern bridges over them. Whenever we inquired how they came by such fine roads and bridges, the reply always attributed them to Bonaparte, so that if he had robbed their churches and monasteries, he had left them many a recompense; and they were willing to admit, that he usefully employed the poor in improving their country, and liberally patronized the arts.