CHAP. XXX. UTRECHT—AMSTERDAM. On arriving at Utrecht, we were prevented from proceeding to Amsterdam by boat, the same evening, as we had intended, in consequence of heavy rains; and, by the recommendation of one of our passengers, took up our quarters at an inferior inn, near which the diligence stopped. The fire-pan, tobacco, and other accompaniments for smoking, were very shortly placed before us for our entertainment, and the good people seemed much astonished that we should prefer the more simple enjoyment of tea. This city is celebrated for having been the first to shake off the galling yoke of Spain in the year 1579. It was here that the seven provinces formed their alliance, under the counsels of William, prince of Orange, in a conference known as the treaty of Utrecht. In the morning, we prepared early to set off by the barge or treckschuyt for Amsterdam; but, before leaving, we were destined to meet with a specimen of Dutch manners. The master of the inn made a most exorbitant charge, and, when my friend questioned it, he repeated the sum in a rough manner, without deigning to give any other answer, at the same time, approaching with a menacing aspect; my friend took him by the shoulder and pushed him off; this lowered his tone, but he was aware that we had no time to contest it, as we must either set off instantly to gain the barge, or lose our passage, and therefore obstinately adhered to his original demand, and upon the principle of choosing the least of two evils, we thought prudent to comply with it. After traversing a great part of the city, we fortunately reached the barge just as it was on the point of starting. There were three cabins, of different prices, and we had the honour of being placed in the best or aftermost, for our conveyance in which, and luggage, we were charged thirty-one stivers each, equal to about half-a-crown; this, for a journey of twenty miles, we could not complain of. The scenery along this canal, my friend stated to be beautiful in the extreme; in short, it is regarded as the most interesting and characteristic picture that this country displays, and realizes the description of our amiable poet, Goldsmith. “The slow canal, the yellow-blossom’d vale, The willow-tufted bank, the gliding sail, The crowded mart, the cultivated plain.” We heard them very merry in the fore cabin, but had the one we occupied to ourselves until about noon, when two elderly Dutch ladies, who were conversant in French, joined us, and proved agreeable companions, although they were negative characters.